Gunshot Trauma: Reality of Shooting

 38 years ago, today I had my first combat experience.  I remember the day because it was my wife’s birthday. Great, huh?  The trauma has been minimized but the lessons have lived on.  We all have adversity in our lives.  We must ask God what He would have us learn from these experiences.  It helped me to mitigate the trauma.  One of the things I learned from this harrowing experience was how to manage gunshot wounds.  We experienced 200 to 300 against our 32.  We lost 4 but several were wounded.  It’s a miracle that many survived.  We had some top-notch medics that made a huge difference in minimizing lives lost. 

MARCH stands for Massive Hemorrhage, Airway, Respiration, Circulation and Hypothermia.

Remember this acronym to be able to assess the life-giving aid needed

Stay Calm and Assess the Situation

This is where the rubber meets the road.  Some people are not built for the gore and the emergency of a situation.  It does not have to be combat to be serious and life threatening.

Stay calm to assess the situation and make sure you and the injured person are in a safe place.

You can’t help if you’re in danger too. Once you’re sure it's safe, move quickly to the casualty.

Stop The Bleeding

Massive bleeding is the number one cause of preventable death in gunshot wounds. Your priority is to stop the bleeding, especially if it's from an arm or leg.

 

Related Medical Supplies:

• Tourniquet: If the bleeding is from a limb and it's severe, apply a tourniquet immediately. A good military gunshot wound kit will include a high-quality tourniquet which is ready to use and staged for fast application. Place it as high as possible and tighten as tight as possible.
• Compressed Gauze: If the wound is too high or too deep for a tourniquet (such as on the neck or torso), use compressed gauze to pack the wound. This helps stop internal

bleeding. Pack it tightly into the wound to put pressure on the bleeding vessel. After that, apply a trauma bandage to secure it in place.

·         Blood stoppers: Surgical pads are the best for stopping serious bleeding.  The pads that come in most first aid kits are woefully inadequate.  Several surgical pads have the thickness to stop bleeding.

Seal the Chest Wound

If the gunshot wound is in the chest, you need to act fast to seal the wound as soon as possible. Gunshot wounds to the chest can cause a condition called tension pneumothorax, air gets trapped in the chest cavity and collapses the lung.

 

Related Medical Supplies:

• Chest Seal for Gunshot Wound: Most gunshot wound first aid kits come with vented chest seals designed specifically for a chest open wound.

Apply the chest seal directly over the wound, making sure the edges are completely sealed to prevent air from getting in. There might be an exit wound on their back—so check and apply another chest seal if needed. The vented type is recommended because it lets air and blood escape through the channel while preventing air from re-entering.

Check Breathing and watch for Tension Pneumothorax

Once you’ve controlled the bleeding and sealed any chest wounds, it’s time to check the casualty's breath and look for signs of tension pneumothorax. If the Casualty is having increasing difficulty breathing, this might be what is happening.

• Signs of Tension Pneumothorax: Difficulty breathing, rapid shallow breaths, bluish skin (cyanosis), and chest pain.
• Action: Ensure the vented chest seal is functioning properly, allowing air to escape. If breathing becomes more difficult, you may need to perform a needle decompression (with proper training and equipment,) and prepare for rapid evacuation.

In many cases, the person who is injured won’t make it to the hospital without immediate care. That’s why having a gunshot wound first aid kit nearby is so important. Whether it’s in your vehicle, home, or on you during outdoor activities, being prepared means, you can provide lifesaving care.

 

 Gunshot Trauma Kit contents

· Bandage Scissors

· Curved Hemostat

· Venom Nitrile Gloves – No Latex

· Face Masks

· Alcohol Wipes

· Betadine Iodine

· Mylar Blanket – avoid shock

· Ammonia inhaler

· CPR Mask

· Red Marker

· Incident Report

· CAT Tourniquet

· H & H Dressing

· Adhesive Tape – Latex Free

· Israeli Bandage / Emergency Pressure Bandage

· #10 Scalpel

· Decompression Needle

· Roll Gauze

· Celox-A Sterile ABD Pads

· Double Chest Seal

 

• For Bleeding: Tourniquet, Compressed Gauze, Combat Gauze with Kaolin, gloves, trauma shears
• For Chest Wound: Chest Seal kit, gloves, trauma shears

 

It’s important to react quickly to a gunshot wound.  Some cases would be something that needs immediate attention even for a through-and-through or a nick.  Some may be minor blood loss but it’s not always clear what was hit inside the body.

It takes a little preparation in gear and learned skills that can mean the difference between life or death.  It’s not always that dire, until it is.  Get basic training and have the tools necessary to save a life if called upon.  I can tell you from personal experience that’s it’s not a good experience to watch someone die in front of you and feeling helpless.  Preparedness is the answer.  Be prepared!

Semper Paratus

Check6

Burn

Round in the Chamber? How Can You Do That?

Again I got the question.  Often it's an argument, do you carry a round in your chamber?  Rather than answer this over and over again, I will repost this from February of 2016.  Enjoy!

 Everyone who owns a gun or carries a gun has different thoughts about safety. Some believe that to be safe you must lock up guns. This is true but only to a certain point. When it comes to guns and children, keeping them safe is your primary concern. But as your children get older, I believe if they are trained and exposed to guns, the mystery is removed, and a respect and safety ethic replaces curiosity. Safety is a perspective thing.

Remember this scene from the movie “Blackhawk Down”?
Steele: Sergeant, what's the meaning of this?
[Thinking he's talking about the unauthorized pig picking]
"Hoot": Just a little aerial target practice, sir. Didn't want to leave 'em behind.
Steele: I'm talking about your weapon, soldier. Now Delta or no-Delta, that's still a hot weapon. Your safety should be on at all times.
"Hoot": This is my safety, sir.
[He holds up his index finger and bends motions as if squeezing a trigger and then walks off]
Sanderson: Let it alone, sir. He hasn't eaten in a few days. (Hangry?)

Guns do not shoot themselves. Contrary to Hollywood’s false impression modern guns don’t go off if you drop them. They only shoot when something presses the trigger.
The amount of people who don’t carry a weapon with a round in the chamber is simply astounding. In this article, I’m going to cover why you should carry a gun that is locked, cocked and ready to rock.
I want to say right now that if you don’t carry a round in the chamber, my goal is not to offend you. My goal is to help you realize something, so please read on.
As a rule of thumb, police officers are taught that an attacker (AKA a bad guy) can successfully make up enough distance to overpower someone in under 21 feet. Why? Because the “average” attacker can usually make up 21 feet in less than 2 seconds. Some guys are even faster than that.
What this means is that by the time you realize your life is in danger, your assailant is already upon you with a knife or other means of deadly force. Unfortunately for you and me, it also takes anywhere from .7-1.5 seconds for your body to react once it realizes that it is in danger. So, if you pull your gun from its holster and there isn’t a round in the chamber what are you going to do? If he is on you and you still need to chamber a round, you’re as good as dead.
In all actuality, what will likely happen is you’ll draw your weapon and your attacker will either turn around and run like a dog with his tail tucked, or he’ll continue on in his pursuit regardless of the outcome. Why? Because that’s how criminals think.
The last thing any criminal wants is to get caught being, is a criminal. If one is bold enough to attack you, he is also bold enough to kill you. How do we know this? Ask a state correctional officer. They have had plenty of time to talk to the inmates and get a feeling for how they think.
More often than not, this attacker will be just a few feet from you, taking even less time for you to react appropriately. The only real way to mitigate the possibility of someone being successful in an attack, is to carry a handgun with a round in the chamber. That way, all you have to do is pull the gun from its holster, and press.
The reason for not carrying with a round in the chamber stems from inexperience and fear. Remember that I don’t mean to insult or offend anyone, these are just my opinions. I would hope you will take this information as it is meant to be given, to educate and inform.
Many people, even those who decide to own and carry a gun, are afraid of them.
Remember when you first started to drive? When another vehicle approached you from the opposite direction, you would hug the shoulder. That is somewhat how it is with a gun. Especially when you start to carry. Many people will touch their gun often when they start carrying to ensure the gun is still there. Learning how to handle and use a gun, then actually using it, will give you the confidence you need to not be afraid of it. The other problem is the media. Movies and TV teach false ideas about guns. Even those who carry guns for a living can be taught false ideas by media. I’ve heard stories of a policeman going into a hostile environment, getting shot in their vest, and falling to the ground, out of the fight. Even though they are really not out of the fight and very few bullets can actually knock someone down.
Lack of training is something that can cause an undue fear of guns. As I said before, the more experience you have with guns the more comfortable you are with them. Like driving a vehicle, you must develop muscle memory. You do this by practicing and training. You soon learn that the gun is not unsafe, but the shooter can be. Also, like driving, if you don’t follow safety rules you can get hurt.
What does this have to do with a round in the chamber? It means that when you are properly trained, practice safety and handling often, you too will have the confidence and see the logic in, carrying a gun with a round in the chamber.
Anyone who does not get training and does not practice will lose what they have learned by their limited training. Find a qualified instructor to take classes from. Notice how the word “Classes” is plural? One class will not take care of your training needs. You need to commit to training or practice. There is a lot that goes into buying and carrying a lethal weapon. It takes time and money as a commitment.
These are the rules that you should learn and be able to quote by heart.
Rule 1: ALL GUNS ARE ALWAYS LOADED
Rule 2: NEVER LET THE MUZZLE COVER (POINT AT) ANYTHING YOU ARE NOT WILLING TO DESTROY
Rule 3: KEEP YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER UNTIL YOUR SIGHTS ARE ON THE TARGET
Rule 4: BE SURE OF YOUR TARGET AND BEYOND
Being prepared with your gun can mean the difference between life or death. It takes only a little effort to find out whether you can be comfortable carrying a round in the chamber. I do not think you will have the time and maybe the motor skills to bring your weapon into battery.
Do whatever it takes to be comfortable, competent, and happy with your gun.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn

Guns, Gear, and Opinions

This is a repost from 2016.  I know that it's lazy, but I just had a similar experience as the story below.  I seem to have these questions a lot.  I suppose it's a logical question if you decide you should carry.  Burn

 It happened again. I was at the range, and I ran into a guy I hadn’t seen in a while. I used to see him at the range all the time, but my work schedule changed, and I hadn’t seen him in some time. He was with another guy, and we had an interesting conversation. In the process of the conversation my friend’s friend asked me for advice on a particular gun and some gear. I paused before I answered and then asked him some questions about his choices. It turned out that he already bought the gun on someone else’s advice and wanted some confirmation. We talked about what he wanted out of the gun and gear in question and concluded that maybe a different choice would take care of his needs. Not once did I mention a brand. I’ve done it before. But I try to not drop brand names. I mean, is a Glock really better than a Kimber or a Sig Saur? All these guns are great, as are Smith and Wesson, Ruger, etc. There are many really good gun makers out there. I feel like I’ve heard all the advice there is out there but once in a while I’m surprised. Don’t get caught giving the following bad advice.

If it feels good shoot it!
Do not tell someone to get a gun because it “fits” their hand or “feels” good. I’ve felt some pretty good “feeling” handguns that shot like a slingshot. This is about as crazy as buying a gun because of the way it looks! It would be good if a gun did the task you wanted it to do AND felt wonderful. Some do. Some may not. Initially a gun can “feel” good but with time you can see it’s going to beat you up.

Get what the *blank* (fill in favorite military unit or law enforcement agency) uses.
I really hate this advice! Just because an agency buys a particular gun doesn’t mean it’s the one for you.  Sometimes a gun for an agency is picked by someone who doesn’t know squat about guns.

Get whatever feels best in your hand
This piece of advice is the worst of all. It rules the roost of bad gun buying advice, because what you're asking a newbie with little understanding of guns to do is select a piece of life saving equipment based purely on how it feels. Let me tell you something, there are a lot of guns that feel wonderful when you hold them, but that can't get through a box of ammo without a malfunction! That's really the problem. I've had lots of people complain that Glocks don't "feel good" in their hand. Thankfully, I've almost never heard the same thing about M&Ps, which are also awesome, and generally "feel good." But just relying on how a gun "feels" in your hand is the peak of bad advice. It doesn't inform you how the gun functions, how accurate it is, how reliable it is, or even if it's comfortable when you start to shoot it. There are guns that feel great when you're just holding them, but when you start putting rounds down range you discover that recoil changes things. There are guns that I began shooting a lot, and the safety ended up chewing a hole in my hand.

Get a revolver because they never jam
I love revolvers. I think they're great. They're mechanically interesting, they challenge me as a shooter, and they connect us to history. They also absolutely do fail mechanically, and when they do it frequently requires tools to fix. I understand the reasoning behind this one though, because it assumes the novice is going to want something that is easy to deal with if something goes wrong. Yes, it's true that if you get a light primer hit on a wheel gun, the fix is simple: pull the trigger. But there are plenty of things that could happen to a wheel gun that aren't light primer hits, and fixing those is a lot more complicated than "just pull the trigger." Especially if you can't pull the trigger, because I've seen that happen. So, the revolver is not the end-all most simple gun ever made. It has its limitations too.

Get the biggest caliber you can control. I've probably said this at some point in my past, and for that I apologize. This nonsense is how untalented, brand spanking new shooters end up with tiny carry guns chambered in .40 S&W and .45 ACP, which results in them developing a wicked flinch whenever they go and fire it. Think about it: someone with no real gun experience goes and buys a Glock 27 because it's small and chambered in a "powerful" cartridge. They go the range and its sharp recoil, so they're disinterested in future practice with it.

Get a pocket gun because in most self-defense situations you don't need to shoot. This one drives me up the wall, but I've heard more than a few people say it. The line of reasoning is that since you probably won't need to shoot your gun, the best idea is to get something that is completely unobtrusive, that you won't have to put any effort into carrying. The thing that obviously drives me nuts about this is that it kicks off a logical progression that if followed to its only conclusion is that you don't really need to carry a gun at all, all you need is a gun-shaped object.

Here's the problem: what if your gunfight is an actual gunfight? What if you actually need to shoot someone? All of a sudden that little .380 with crappy sights and a heavy trigger isn't so optimal, is it? No one who's ever been in a real fight wished they had a smaller gun or less ammo; so why would you intentionally compromise your choices?

All you need is a .45
In this scenario, there are two options for good advice. If you think the person is interested in actually becoming a shooter, tell them to get a friggin' .22 LR. Then they can actually learn stuff instead of just hammering bullets low and to left in a B27. However, if you don't think they're really interested in guns as a hobby and just want something for home protection, just tell them to get a full size 9mm service pistol. Be a good friend and explain that handgun stopping power is a myth, and there is not significant difference in terminal ballistics between any of the service cartridges.

Get whatever your local police department uses. This seems good because the logic behind it is so appealing. On the surface it makes sense, because the odds are that your local PD isn't going to be carrying some garbage gun around. But the flip side of that is that a gun selected by a committee that is largely disinterested in anything other than the price and intended to be carried around on a duty belt for 12 hours a day unconcealed may not be the best choice for concealed carry. Additionally, political administrators frequently like to saddle their officers with trigger mechanisms that are intended to inhibit negligent discharges, but all they really accomplish making the gun more difficult to shoot should you need it.


The point of all of this is to not give people bad advice. When someone who isn't a gun person comes to you for advice, they're in the awful situation of not knowing what they don't know; and they're likely relying on your opinion to steer them in the right direction. What can you do to help them? The best advice possible is to try and get them to take one of the many "introduction" classes, where you don't need a gun to attend, because the range provides all of that. If that's not an option, help them pick a reliable, concealable defensive handgun chambered in 9mm. Like a Glock 19. Or an M&P Compact. Why these? Because they are very reliable. Why 9mm? It’s a good start caliber.

Remember that when someone asks you for this advice, they are probably going to put most of their trust in you. I don’t bother with brand names, as long as it IS a brand name. Make sure to steer them toward a reliable brand. There are many out there. Also, steer them toward training. Try to get them to go to a range or class that offers many different guns and calibers to shoot. Let them get their own experience because a gun is a personal thing.

Avoid the above mistakes and explain to your new-to- guns person that care should be taken to find the gun that fits not only physically, but a fit of caliber, and type of gun.

As for me, any good brand ( I like S&W, Ruger, Kahr, and good 1911’s). My favorite caliber is 9mm because I don’t compete anymore, and I like 9mm for defense. But then again, that is only me and my opinion. Go out and get your own opinion!

Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn

Magazine Maintenance: More Fun Than a Barrel of Monkeys

 Magazine maintenance isn’t really a hot topic among gun owners. People love talking about what they do and don’t do with their firearms, but their magazines are often forgotten. This is due, in part, to the idea that they don’t really need much care.

While that’s relatively true in comparison to guns, completely forgetting about the piece of equipment that’s solely responsible for feeding your firearm is a mistake that will eventually catch up with you.

 Cleaning your semi-auto pistol magazines is simple and not necessary very often unless the magazines get excessively dirty based on how you use them. This can happen from thousands of fired rounds or one tumble in dirt or mud. Most malfunctions caused by “dirty mags” will be due to foreign debris like dirt, small rocks, mud, and sand.

To give your magazine a cleaning, you’re going to have to disassemble it. Most magazines have five basic parts.

There is the base plate, the floor plate, the magazine shell (also known as the body), the follower, and the spring. With some guns, the follower and the spring are connected and can’t be taken apart, so don’t try to force the spring out of the follower.

When you bought your gun, you also got a manufacturer’s handbook with it. In that handbook, you’ll find detailed instructions on disassembling the gun and the magazine.

Follow the instructions, and you’ll be fine.

 

Magazines and guns are susceptible to the same kind of damage.  You need to get rid of dust and moisture. However, you won’t find any gunpowder residue in the magazine, so that makes it noticeably easier and quicker than cleaning your gun.

To get rid of all the dust, just scrub all magazine parts with an old toothbrush or a brush made for magazine cleaning.  You should also run a clean rag through the magazine body just to make sure it’s clean on the inside.

For most magazines, this is more than enough to keep them clean for a long time.

However, if you’re doing outdoor drills in a high-humidity area or if you drop your mag in a puddle, you’ll need to protect it from moisture as well. Experts recommend using an alcohol wipe to clean any would-be rust out of your magazine.

 

Once you’re done, all that’s left to do is reassemble the magazine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Put the mag back into your gun and make sure everything’s clicking just right. If it is, you’re good to go!

 

Since it takes no more than 10 to 15 minutes to disassemble, clean, and reassemble a magazine, it’d be great if you cleaned the magazine every time you shot your gun. 

But really, if you pay attention and clean them when residue builds up or when you notice they are dirty, you will be fine.

 

https://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/magazine-maintenance-dos-donts/

Thanks to The Shooters Log and John Bibby for the Do’s and Don’ts

Magazine Maintenance Don’ts

So, what are the do’s and don’ts when it comes to magazine maintenance? Let’s start with the “don’t” list:

• Don’t attempt to deep clean the magazines without disassembling. You won’t remove much dirt or grit and the cleaning tools might get stuck or damage the magazine.
• Don’t just drop it in an ultrasonic cleaner—metal mags may come outstripped of paint; plastic mags and followers may not withstand the chemical bath (depending on chemicals).
• Do not use Simply Green on aluminum mags or mags with non-steel metal components—corrosion, damage of the metal and destruction of the mag may occur.
• Do not lube polymer mags—it only attracts dust and grime, as they are self-lubricating.

Magazine Maintenance Do’s

Now for the “do” list:

• Wear eye protection—a spring or follower to the eye is no joke.
• Confirm chemical compatibility with magazine components—standard gun cleaning products are normally safe.
• Have plenty of clean paper towels or disposable fabric cloth—for cleaning and lubing duties.
• Carefully disassemble the magazine, watch a video if you don’t know how.
• Carefully clean and inspect all components. Look for dirt, carbon, rust, weak spots, wear issues and spring tension.
• Replace all overly worn components–Magpul and others make repair/upgrade kits.
• Be sure to remove cleaner. Apply a light coat of oil to metal mags and apply non-evaporating/dry lube to spring components.
• Reassemble magazines. Generally, the reverse order of disassembly.
• Function check by handloading and manually cycling a full load of ammo–it should find binding or feeding issues

Smile, your job is done, and the magazine should last a lot longer based on a few minutes of work!

Magazine maintenance is not as important or talked about as gun cleaning and maintenance, but if can make a big different when you need your magazine to function perfectly.

Is it more fun than a barrel of monkeys?  Depends on your definition of fun...

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

When You Die What Happens to Your Guns?

 When you die who do you trust to deal with your guns?  Your reloading equipment?  Your shooting gear?

That could be a real problem for those you leave behind.  If there is no one in your family who is a gun nut, son, daughter or spouse, then what will happen to all that you have collected over the years?  I have a friend and neighbor whose father-in-law passed away.  His father-in-law had many guns and even more ammunition.  The mans widow had no idea of the worth of the collection.  She did know a local who owned an on again, off again, gun shop.  The shop owner wasn’t particularly dishonest, but he convinced the widow to sell him all the guns and ammunition in a lump.  I don’t know the details, but my friend said the price was ok, but not what she could have received if she sold the guns and ammo separately.  She let family members; children pick guns that they wanted then sold the rest.

There are several things you can do to avoid these problems.

1.      If the guns are guns you don’t shoot and you want to give them to a family member, do it now before there are any legal entanglements.  You can write a receipt for each gun to have a paper trail.

2.      Sell the guns you don’t use or don’t want in your collection.  Be serious about your evaluation and pick up some cash for ammo.

3.      Ammunition is a different story.  Get rid of ammo if you don’t have a gun that shoots it.  You can sell or give away ammo.

4.      Have a will.  It’s just good practice to have a will regardless of your age.  You can mention specific guns going to specific people or all the collection going to a person or family member you know will distribute or sell your collection to make the maximum amount.

5.      Write things down.  Some people keep a record of their guns and what they paid for them with each gun.  You can reevaluate each guns worth every few years.  This way your spouse or family will have an idea of the worth of your collection.

6.      It’s not just a good idea to have records of your guns for inheritance reasons, but insurance also.  I have a picture of each gun, a close-up of the serial number, and a written description.  If there is a receipt it is included in the package.  I also have a list of guns and where they need to go.  This way at the least my family will know my wishes.  If it goes different it’s OK.  Maybe one of my kids won’t want a particular gun or they have a memory tied to a different gun, then the will executor can make adjustments.

Make records of any accessories and gear you have too.  Scopes and red dot sights can be high dollar accessories.  Don’t forget reloading equipment, safes, or hunting gear.  Bows and their accessories should be included.

Mark your magazines so that they will be matched with the correct gun.

Keep a record of ammo and its location.  I’ve kept a running amount of ammo for many years even before the ammo shortages.  I shoot a lot, and I maintain a certain amount in each caliber.  I also keep a general idea of the worth of my ammunition so whoever wants to sell it will have an idea of its worth.

Keeping your guns, gear, and reloading or hunting equipment organized helps in the process of liquidating.  Be kind to your family.  Be organized. Write a will.  Keep updated records.  Doing these things will help if anything is ever stolen or there is a fire.  Keep a digital copy in a different place other than your computer.  It can be put on a stick and kept in a safety deposit box.  Even a locker at your job will work.

Doing these things will take care of your family and ensure your wife or children have an easier time if you’re not here.

Now, without getting religious, want me to tell you where you go when YOU die?...

Guess I shouldn't proselyte here.  

 

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

National Preparedness Month: Home Emergency Kit

It is national preparedness month and so I feel every home should have an emergency kit.  This list is a suggestion and a place to start. Make sure you have the basics covered ASWiFF.

The basics of survival are: Air, Shelter, Water, Food, Fire

I also like redundancy in these areas.

If you already have an emergency kit now is a good time to go through it and replace and recirculate.

• Water (2 gallons per person for drinking and sanitation)
• Food (at least a two week supply of non-perishable food)
• Battery-powered or hand crank radio and a NOAA Weather Radio with tone alert
• Flashlight
• First aid kit
• Extra batteries
• Whistle (to signal for help)
• Dust mask (to help filter contaminated air)
• Plastic sheeting, scissors and duct tape (to shelter in place)
• Moist towelettes, garbage bags and plastic ties (for personal sanitation)
• Wrench or pliers (to turn off utilities)
• Manual can opener (for food)
• Local maps
• Cell phone with chargers and a backup battery

Consider adding the following items to your emergency supply kit based on your individual needs:

• Soap, hand sanitizer and disinfecting wipes to disinfect surfaces
• Prescription medications. About half of all Americans take a prescription medicine every day. An emergency can make it difficult for them to refill their prescription or to find an open pharmacy. Organize and protect your prescriptions, over-the-counter drugs, and vitamins to prepare for an emergency.
• Non-prescription medications such as pain relievers, anti-diarrhea medication, antacids or laxatives
• Prescription eyeglasses and contact lens solution
• Infant formula, bottles, diapers, wipes and diaper rash cream
• Pet food and extra water for your pet
• Cash or traveler's checks
• Important family documents such as copies of insurance policies, identification and bank account records saved electronically or in a waterproof, portable container
• Sleeping bag or warm blanket for each person
• Complete change of clothing appropriate for your climate and sturdy shoes
• Fire extinguisher
• Matches in a waterproof container
• Feminine supplies and personal hygiene items
• Mess kits, paper cups, plates, paper towels and plastic utensils
• Paper and pencil
• Books, games, puzzles or other activities for children

As I said before this is a good place to start.

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

Zero at 200 Makes Me Smile!

It's the end of Summer and Fall is around the corner.  Many avid hunters are buying their hunting licenses and getting things ready.  Zeroing a rifle will commence at gun ranges all over this country. I will see it happen as I spend a lot of time at the range. For hunting, it’s pretty important. For defense, it’s just as important. Every hunter will have their favorite “zero” distance. If you hunt big game like Elk, you will probably want to zero at a greater distance than say, Texas deer or hogs. Everyone has their own ideas and you should find what suits you, your rifle, your caliber, and your bullet load. I haven’t hunted in several years and the older I get, the less I want to. I have nothing at all against hunting, I think it’s great sport and useful for wildlife management and just putting meat on the table. Many years ago I hunted with a 30-06. I took deer every year, would field dress it, haul it out, dress it, ¼ it, blah, blah, blah. I hate the processing part but I’m too cheap to pay someone to do it. We used to hunt dove every year, and Javalina too. Now days I think I’d like a .308 for hunting. Anyway, zero for hunting is different than zero for defense. Many people go by the old military standby of zeroing at 100 yards. But I learned that zero at 50 is the best defense zero because of several things. I’ll go through what I was taught by an Air Force special forces operator who I’ve known for years. I like the way he explained it to me.

This method is for open sights or red dot only, not scopes. And this is something I would use with a 5.56/.223 chambered weapon.
As I said above, 50 yards is the ideal zero for defense and here’s why. Shooting a deer is not the same as a man.
When you first sight in a rifle or new sights, set up your target at 25 yards. Sight for dead center bullseye. This way you will know if the rifle is at least on your target before you try it at a greater distance. If the rifle is way off, you’ll catch it here. Fire more than one shot to make sure there is a group on paper. As usual for any sight in, use a stand. Then when you’ve got it sighted at 25 yards bullseye, adjust the sights to 1 inch under the bullseye. Because the bullet has yet to cross the line of sight at a close 25, so 50 will be a little lower.
Then move the target out to 50 yards. You want this to be adjusted to dead center. Once you’ve done this you will be ready to engage a man size target at 250 yards. How can that be? Because of bullet drop (this is a 0.224 caliber, 55 grain .223 bullet). A .223 bullet will hit dead center at 50 yards, 1.4” high at 100 yards, 1.5” at 200 yards, and 7.2” low at 250 yards. So if you aim for center of mass, you will hit a man’s body from close quarters out to 250 yards.
Why not just zero at 100 yards? The bullet drop is similar at 100 yards but you get a significant drop at 250 or 300 yards. It would be in the dirt. The 50 yard dial in for that bullet clearly is the one to use at all those ranges as a defensive round ballistically speaking.
7.62x39 can use this method but past 200 yards the .30 caliber Russian round does not do very well because of bullet drop. The 5.45x39 is similar to the 5.56 so you can use this method with that round.
Zeroing a rifle is important and essential. Anyone who owns a rifle needs to know how to zero it. Experiment and find out if the above will work for you.
You can also experiment with your gun and a stand. This is also assuming your bullet of choice is the .223/5.56. Most battle rifles are chambered for this caliber but I know there are some 7.62x39 and .308 lovers out there. Lots of AK people out there. The different bullet will, of course, give you different ballistics. 100 yards may be in order for other calibers.

Zero at 50 is what I call it but it's really closer to zero at 200.  Some will debate this, and of coarse some will debate all of the above.  Some of you are extremely precise!  Precise is good enough for me.  I'm not a sniper and I'm not trying to get a 1,000 yard hit on steel.  That's OK for some of you and I admire it, I know it's just not for me.  Long distance shooting doesn't interest me at all.  But defending at 100 to 200 yards makes me warm and fuzzy inside. This makes the 50/200 zero ideal for rapid engagement across common engagement distances (0-200 yards), where speed, simplicity, and accountable hits matter more than fine-tuned precision.
I realize this is controversial at worst, and debatable at best.  There are many ways and even gizmos to help you sight in a rifle.  Find what works for you!

Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn

Reality of Stopping a Threat

 “You don’t need more than 10 rounds to stop a threat!”  I’ve heard this claim from many who have never trained for, nor been in, a firefight.  My only experience in a firefight was a combat situation which is different and similar.  I was in a fairly secure bunker with plenty of other shooters and a place to retreat to if things got too bad.  That place was full of ammo.  But even so, in one particular attack I ran out of ammo.  I can’t tell you how bad that feels.  I had more than one brother throw me mags.  I vowed to never be in that situation again. 

I also have a friend who had 3 thugs invade his home.  In the firefight that ensued he expended more than 50 rounds to neutralize and scare these threats away.  You can’t tell him he only needs 10 rounds!  He is extensively trained and considered an expert shot.

These examples are the exception, not the rule I would agree but how do you know your encounter will be a rule and not an exception?

Being a good shooter means you will be able to make a solid vital zone hit with most shots in a gunfight.  I can’t tell you how much of a lie this is!  Sometimes we categorize a “good” shooter as something that it’s not.  Standing and shooting a paper or steel target is not a firefight.  Even a run and gun competition is not the same as being shot at.  In a real firefight because of fear and adrenaline you don’t take as much time with each shot as you normally would.  There are some wasted rounds.  There is something called a “determined” attacker.  Regardless of how many rounds you pump into them, they refuse to back down.   

There is a famous example of Lance Thomas, a watchmaker in California who survived four shootouts in his shop between 1989 and 1991. In the second of these fights, Lance was attacked by three armed men. They started the fight by shooting Lance four times with a .25 ACP pistol. Lance returned fire with a Ruger Security-Six .357 magnum. He hit the first suspect with five out of six shots, dropping him. But the other two guys stuck around and kept shooting. Lance emptied two more revolvers before the fight was over, with a second suspect dead and the third retreating outside to a waiting getaway car.

In total, Lance connected with 11 of the 17 shots he fired in that fight. By most gunfight standards, that could be considered phenomenal accuracy. And yet, if he only had those first six shots, he would likely not have survived the encounter. Accuracy is often the deciding factor in these incidents, but it’s not out of the realm of possibility that more than a handful of rounds will be necessary in addition to accurate shooting.

Shot placement is important but there is no substitute for having more ammo.  Facing multiple attackers or a determined attacker forces you to shoot better and have more ammo.  Either more ammo or additional guns.

 Lance Thomas had the foresight to place multiple revolvers within arm’s reach of his workbench. If, like most people, you only carry a single handgun, you’ll need to train to get maximum effectiveness out of each round.  

“It’ll only take one shot if you use magnum ammo”. Or a 45. Or 44. Fill in the blank with the caliber of your choice. Knowing that bad guys have an annoying habit of stubbornly shrugging off bullets from time to time, some people are convinced that the solution is not more bullets, but bigger ones.

We’ll set aside for a moment the fact that magnum loads and big bore calibers are more difficult to shoot quickly and accurately under stress. Let’s once again assume for the sake of argument that the hypothetical armed citizen always hits his intended target in a timely manner. Surely a handful of slugs from the mighty [insert your favorite caliber] will stop any miscreant, no matter how determined. Right?

In a shootout with a armed bank robber, Sergeant Timothy Gramins fired 33 rounds of .45 ACP over the course of 56 seconds. Even with no drugs or alcohol in his system, the suspect was able to keep firing at the officer after sustaining six hits to vital organs in addition to 8 non-vital hits. It wasn’t until Gramins fired a series of shots that struck the suspect’s head that he was taken out of the fight.

This type of situation is not typical of armed encounters involving private citizens, but for our purposes the moral of the story isn’t about the tactics used or overall number of shots fired, but the amount of damage the suspect was able to absorb. Half a dozen rounds from what is normally considered a “big caliber” hit some pretty important stuff inside this bad guy, but he was able to keep throwing bullets back at the cop.

If you read about enough shootings, you’ll find numerous odd examples of people taking rounds to the chest and face from all kinds of big bore handguns (as well as rifles, buckshot, and shotgun slugs) that don’t result in immediate incapacitation. It’s not that caliber is inconsequential, but bullets do weird and unpredictable things. And handgun bullets in particular can’t be counted on to do what you want them to do the first time, regardless of what number is etched on the headstamp.

When some anti-gunner comes at you with magazine minimums ask them if that is what they would want to deal with in a gunfight?  Limiting magazine round count will not stop mass shooters who usually plan.  How many stories have your heard about a mass shooter that was stopped and they found many rounds in his back pack or bag?  Even if you limit magazines that only means you have to buy more!

The reality of needing more magazines and ammo is there because you are not sure what you are going to go up against.  Larger capacities are what the criminals will have, laws or not.    Know that laws about magazine capacity are just knee-jerk ideas that only hurt the law abiding citizen.

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn