Showing posts with label Reviews. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Reviews. Show all posts

Friday, December 12, 2025

Hot Gunz: A Stolen Firearm Searchable Database

 Hot Gunz is a database for guns that are stolen.  In the past, only law enforcement were the ones to have access to stolen gun information.  That is no longer the case.  HotGunz was created by gun owners who felt that regular citizens should have access to stolen gun information. Law enforcement databases are only available to law enforcement personnel; there is no way of knowing if a used firearm is a stolen gun. The HotGunz stolen gun database doesn’t necessarily have every stolen gun in it, but it is quickly making it much more difficult for gun thieves to sell stolen firearms. When the database was created in January 2009, they never charged any fees to list a stolen gun or search for a stolen gun. It is a great service for gun sellers and buyers. It is also the longest running and largest user-submitted database of stolen guns.  They have over 32,000 guns from north America and has been trusted by gun owners for 16 years.

Before buying a used gun check against this database.  You can add any guns that were stolen from you.  You can get help from the public and check if a firearm is stolen.

You must have an account to add a stolen gun, edit or remove stolen guns or view stolen guns in your area.  The account is free as of this writing.

Check it out!

https://www.hotgunz.com/

 

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

Thursday, October 16, 2025

Air Marshal Course of Fire Review: The Toughest Out There!

  This is a review for the federal Air Marshal service.  This course of fire is supposed to be the toughest course out there in the military and law enforcement world.  I admit, it was tougher than anything I’ve shot so far in my experiment.  I still did alright.  I ran it twice and scored 140 and 137.  It was a challenge, but it was fun.  I got hung up in the mag change for some reason.

I challenge you to try to ace it.  Some of you should be able to…

Air Marshal Pistol Qualification Course of Fire

All targets set at 7 yards. QIT-99 target. Score 5 points inside the inner zones and 2 points anywhere in the bottle. Requires 135 / 150 to pass with no single stage time overage or re-shoot.

Drill 1 (2 Rounds)

From concealment, hands at sides

Draw and fire one round

Repeat

Time: 3.3 seconds total, 1.65 second average per shot.

Drill 2 (4 rounds)

From low ready

Raise the gun and fire two rounds

Repeat

Time: 2.7 seconds total, 1.35 second average per shot.

Drill 3 (6 rounds)

From low ready

Raise gun and fire six rounds

Time: 3 seconds total.

Drill 4 (4 rounds)

From low ready

Fire one shot, reload, fire second shot

Repeat

Time: 6.5 seconds total, 3.25 second average per string.

Drill 5 (4 rounds)

Set up two targets, 3 yards apart

From low ready

Raise gun and fire one shot into each target

Repeat

Time: 3.30 seconds, 1.65 second average per string.

Drill 6 (6 rounds)

Three targets three yards apart

Start from concealment, facing away from targets

Draw and fire one round at each target

Repeat and turn in the opposite direction

Time: 7 seconds total, average of 3.5 seconds per string.

Drill 7 (4 rounds)

Set up the gun with one round in the chamber and an empty magazine loaded

From low ready

Raise gun and fire one round, drop to one knee while reloading, fire a second round from the kneeling position

Repeat

Time: 8 seconds total, average of 4 seconds per string

 

I’d like to know what the average is for Air Marshals on this test.  Can they take it more than once?  And if not right away, then how much time do they give you in between qual times?

I’d be interested!

 

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

Wednesday, October 1, 2025

Navy Course of Fire Review

 I’m trying to find many courses of fire to shoot and evaluate.  This is all I could find for the Navy.  I don’t know if they use this to qualify annually?  I don’t know.  If so, it’s a little flaky.

 

Navy  total of 48 live rounds:

  • From the 3-yard line: You fire a total of 12 rounds from the 3-yard line. With your strongest hand supported, you fire two rounds with a time limit of four seconds. You then holster your weapon and repeat the first firing sequence. You then repeat this process, except this time, you reload the additional six rounds and switch to your weak hand.
  • From the 7-yard line: During this section, you fire a total of 12 rounds from the 7-yard line. The first three times, you fire the weapon two rounds, strong hand supported. Then you have 10 seconds to fire two more rounds, reload, switch hands and fire two more rounds. After holstering your weapon, you have eight seconds to draw and fire your last two rounds.
  • From the 15-yard line: In this part, you fire a total of 24 rounds from the 15-yard line. Again, using your strong hand, you fire two rounds in four seconds, repeat and then fire four rounds before holstering your weapon. You then move to the kneeling position, where you fire four rounds, reload 12 rounds and then fire another four rounds before holstering your pistol. Finally, you have eight seconds to draw and fire your remaining eight rounds.

In order to graduate from Navy recruit training, you must achieve a minimum score of 180 points. Each area of the human-shaped target is worth a certain number of points. Vital areas (such as chest and head) are worth more than areas such as legs and wrist.

I gave the legs, arms, and shoulders 2 points each and 4 points for torso and head.

I ran this course 3 times and ended up with a best score of 192 and a worst score of 182.  It was not too bad, but it was no fun at all.  I think there are several areas that would improve this course of fire.  Also the scoring seems subject to interpretation.  Where does the chest end and the arms start?

Try it yourself and let us know your success or failures.

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

Tuesday, September 23, 2025

FBI Course of Fire Review

 This is a review of the FBI Course of Fire.  I don’t think I’m an exceptional shot.  I can hit what I aim at, but I don’t feel I’m a very technical and precise shot.  I feel I can shoot a decent silver dollar group.  There’s always that flyer though.  Anyway, I can shoot a course of fire and know if it’s difficult and challenging.  I shot this course 3 times with a best score of 58 of 60.  My worst was 52 of 60.  I think it is a moderate course of fire.  The most challenging part is the distance (15 and 25 yards).

I feel that this course is better than many because of the strong/weak hand, reload, and shooting from cover.  Change of stances is also a bonus.  The time constraints didn’t bother me.  If they were a little tighter it might have put extra stress on me.  Overall, I would recommend this course of fire.  Shoot it and see areas you may need to change to make it more challenging.

Mix this with courses of fire and you can get some great practice.  I like the fact that it’s only 60 rounds.  I shoot 50 rounds in my own workout so 60 suits me fine.  

 

FBI Course of Fire

Standards

  • Course of fire takes 60 rounds
  • The entire FBI qualification is completed on one QIT-99 Target
  • Each round counts as one point
  • Each course of fire is done from the concealed position
  • Any shot within the target area counts
  • Agents must get a score of 48 out of 60
  • Instructors must get a score of 54 out of 60

Course of fire #1: 3 Yard Line (12 rounds total)

  1. Draw and fire 3 rounds in 3 seconds using your strong hand only
  2. Draw and fire 3 rounds in 3 seconds using your strong hand only
  3. Draw and fire 3 rounds using your strong hand only, switch hands, fire 3 rounds using your weak hand only.  Both courses of fire must be completed under 8 seconds

Course of fire #2: 5-Yard Line (12 rounds total)

  1. Draw and fire 3 rounds in 3 seconds
  2. Draw and fire 3 rounds in 3 seconds
  3. Draw and fire 3 rounds in 3 seconds
  4. Draw and fire 3 rounds in 3 seconds

Course of fire #3: 7-Yard Line (16 rounds total)

  1. Draw and fire 4 rounds in 4 seconds
  2. Draw and fire 4 rounds in 4 seconds
  3. Draw and fire 4 rounds, reload, fire 4 rounds.  The entire drill must be completed within 8 seconds

Course of fire #4: 15-Yard Line (10 rounds total)

  1. Draw and fire 3 rounds in 6 seconds
  2. Draw and fire 3 rounds in 6 seconds
  3. Draw and fire 4 rounds in 8 seconds

Course of fire #5: 25-Yard Line (10 rounds total)

  1. Move to cover, draw, fire 2 rounds standing, move to kneeling, fire 3 rounds.  Complete the course of fire under 15 seconds.
  2. Move to cover, draw, fire 2 rounds standing, move to kneeling, fire 3 rounds.  Complete the course of fire under 15 seconds.

 

Try this practice and let me know if you like it or not.

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

Monday, June 16, 2025

Free Printable or Downloadable Paper Targets

 Free Targets              Some printable, some downloadable

My targets

www.mytargets.com

 Printable targets

www.targets.ws

 

NSSF (national shooting sports federation)

Printable shooting targets and gun targets

www.nssf.org

 

Crooked Bend

www.crooked-bend.com

 

Accurate Shooter.com Daily Bulletin

www.bulletin.accurateshooter.com

 

Print targets

www.printtargets.net

 

Targets 4 Free

targets4free.com

 

We all like free.  With all these sites who are willing to give us targets you should find one or two that fit your needs and tastes.   Enjoy!

 

Semper Paratus - Check 6   -  Burn

Tuesday, December 13, 2022

Recommended: Has Big Pharma Hijacked Evidence-Based Medicine? By Dr. Joseph Mercola

https://www.lewrockwell.com/2022/12/joseph-mercola/has-big-pharma-hijacked-evidence-based-medicine/ This is a very interesting article and video. I recommend you watch and read, then do your own research! Semper Paratus Chek 6 Burn

Tuesday, June 14, 2022

Food Storage and Fires

This is a list of fires that have happened within the last 18 months or so. Some have said this is a conspiracy against food production, or to cause shortages. I don’t know if I agree, but this list is not “normal” as the fact finders and the left has said. I think fires are fairly common in food related industries. I’m not so sure about the number of fires that are common, and I think the “fact finders” don’t know either. But regardless of who knows what, this many fires in this amount of time to food facilities is unusual at best. I’m not convinced it will cause shortages, but it will not help already spiraling prices. 1. 1/11/21 A fire that destroyed 75,000-square-foot processing plant in Fayetteville 2. 4/30/21 A fire ignited inside the Smithfield Foods pork processing plant in Monmouth, IL 3. 7/25/21 Three-alarm fire at Kellogg plant in Memphis, 170 emergency personnel responded to the call 4. 7/30/21 Firefighters on Friday battled a large fire at Tyson’s River Valley Ingredients plant in Hanceville, Alabama 5. 8/23/21 Fire crews were called to the Patak Meat Production company on Ewing Road in Austell 6. 9/13/21 A fire at the JBS beef plant in Grand Island, Neb., on Sunday night forced a halt to slaughter and fabrication lines 7. 10/13/21 A five-alarm fire ripped through the Darigold butter production plant in Caldwell, ID 8. 11/15/21 A woman is in custody following a fire at the Garrard County Food Pantry 9. 11/29/21 A fire broke out around 5:30 p.m. at the Maid-Rite Steak Company meat processing plant 10. 12/13/21 West Side food processing plant in San Antonio left with smoke damage after a fire 11. 1/7/22 Damage to a poultry processing plant on Hamilton’s Mountain following an overnight fire 12. 1/13/22 Firefighters worked for 12 hours to put a fire out at the Cargill-Nutrena plant in Lecompte, LA 13. 1/31/22 a fertilizer plant with 600 tons of ammonium nitrate inside caught on fire on Cherry Street in Winston-Salem 14. 2/3/22 A massive fire swept through Wisconsin River Meats in Mauston 15. 2/3/22 At least 130 cows were killed in a fire at Percy Farm in Stowe 16. 2/15/22 Bonanza Meat Company goes up in flames in El Paso, Texas 17. 2/15/22 Nearly a week after the fire destroyed most of the Shearer’s Foods plant in Hermiston 18. 2/16/22 A fire had broken at US largest soybean processing and biodiesel plant in Claypool, Indiana 19. 2/18/22 An early morning fire tore through the milk parlor at Bess View Farm 20. 2/19/22 Three people were injured, and one was hospitalized, after an ammonia leak at Lincoln Premium Poultry in Fremont 21. 2/22/22 The Shearer’s Foods plant in Hermiston caught fire after a propane boiler exploded 22. 2/28/22 A smoldering pile of sulfur quickly became a raging chemical fire at Nutrien Ag Solutions 23. 2/28/22 A man was hurt after a fire broke out at the Shadow Brook Farm and Dutch Girl Creamery 24. 3/4/22 294,800 chickens destroyed at farm in Stoddard, Missouri 25. 3/4/22 644,000 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Cecil, Maryland 26. 3/8/22 243,900 chickens destroyed at egg farm in New Castle, Delaware 27. 3/10/22 663,400 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Cecil, MD 28. 3/10/22 915,900 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Taylor, IA 29. 3/14/22 The blaze at 244 Meadow Drive was discovered shortly after 5 p.m. by farm owner Wayne Hoover 30. 3/14/22 2,750,700 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Jefferson, Wisconsin 31. 3/16/22 A fire at a Walmart warehouse distribution center has cast a large plume of smoke visible throughout Indianapolis. 32. 3/16/22 Nestle Food Plant extensively damaged in fire and new production destroyed Jonesboro, Arkansas 33. 3/17/22 5,347,500 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Buena Vista, Iowa 34. 3/17/22 147,600 chickens destroyed at farm in Kent, Delaware 35. 3/18/22 315,400 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Cecil, Maryland 36. 3/22/22 172,000 Turkeys destroyed on farms in South Dakota 37. 3/22/22 570,000 chickens destroyed at farm in Butler, Nebraska 38. 3/24/22 Fire fighters from numerous towns are battling a major fire at the McCrum potato processing facility in Belfast. 39. 3/24/22 418,500 chickens destroyed at farm in Butler, Nebraska 40. 3/25/22 250,300 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Franklin, Iowa 41. 3/26/22 311,000 Turkeys destroyed in Minnesota 42. 3/27/22 126,300 Turkeys destroyed in South Dakota 43. 3/28/22 1,460,000 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Guthrie, Iowa 44. 3/29/22 A massive fire burned 40,000 pounds of food meant to feed people in a food desert near Maricopa 45. 3/31/22 A structure fire caused significant damage to a large portion of key fresh onion packing facilities in south Texas 46. 3/31/22 76,400 Turkeys destroyed in Osceola, Iowa 47. 3/31/22 5,011,700 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Osceola, Iowa 48. 4/6/22 281,600 chickens destroyed at farm in Wayne, North Carolina 49. 4/9/22 76,400 Turkeys destroyed in Minnesota 50. 4/9/22 208,900 Turkeys destroyed in Minnesota 51. 4/12/22 89,700 chickens destroyed at farm in Wayne, North Carolina 52. 4/12/22 1,746,900 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Dixon, Nebraska 53. 4/12/22 259,000 chickens destroyed at farm in Minnesota 54. 4/13/22 Fire destroys East Conway Beef & Pork Meat Market in Conway, New Hampshire 55. 4/13/22 Plane crashes into Gem State Processing, Idaho potato and food processing plant 56. 4/13/22 77,000 Turkeys destroyed in Minnesota 57. 4/14/22 Taylor Farms Food Processing plant burns down Salinas, California. 58. 4/14/22 99,600 Turkeys destroyed in Minnesota 59. 4/15/22 1,380,500 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Lancaster, Minnesota 60. 4/19/22 Azure Standard nation’s premier independent distributor of organic and healthy food, was destroyed by fire in Dufur, Oregon 61. 4/19/22 339,000 Turkeys destroyed in Minnesota 62. 4/19/22 58,000 chickens destroyed at farm in Montrose, Color 63. 4/20/22 2,000,000 chickens destroyed at egg farm in Minnesota 64. 4/21/22 A small plane crashed in the lot of a General Mills plant in Georgia 65. 4/22/22 197,000 Turkeys destroyed in Minnesota 66. 4/23/22 200,000 Turkeys destroyed in Minnesota 67. 4/25/22 1,501,200 chickens destroyed at egg farm Cache, Utah 68. 4/26/22 307,400 chickens destroyed at farm Lancaster Pennsylvania 69. 4/27/22 2,118,000 chickens destroyed at farm Knox, Nebraska 70. 4/28/22 Egg-laying facility in Iowa kills 5.3 million chickens, fires 200-plus workers 71. 4/28/22 Allen Harim Foods processing plant killed nearly 2M chickens in Delaware 72. 4/2822 110,700 Turkeys destroyed Barron Wisconsin 73. 4/29/22 1,366,200 chickens destroyed at farm Weld Colorado 74. 4/30/22 13,800 chickens destroyed at farm Sequoia Oklahoma 75. 5/3/22 58,000 Turkeys destroyed Barron Wisconsin 76. 5/3/22 118,900 Turkeys destroyed Beadle S Dakota 77. 5/3/22 114,000 ducks destroyed at Duck farm Berks Pennsylvania 78. 5/3/22 118,900 Turkeys destroyed Lyon Minnesota 79. 5/7/22 20,100 Turkeys destroyed Barron Wisconsin 80. 5/10/22 72,300 chickens destroyed at farm Lancaster Pennsylvania 81. 5/10/22 61,000 ducks destroyed at Duck farm Berks Pennsylvania 82. 5/10/22 35,100 Turkeys destroyed Muskegon, Michigan 83. 5/13/22 10,500 Turkeys destroyed Barron Wisconsin 84. 5/14/22 83,400 ducks destroyed at Duck farm Berks Pennsylvania 85. 5/17/22 79,00 chickens destroyed at Duck farm Berks Pennsylvania 86. 5/18/22 7,200 ducks destroyed at Duck farm Berks Pennsylvania 87. 5/19/22 Train carrying limestone derailed Jensen Beach FL 88. 5/21/22 57,000 Turkeys destroyed on farm in Dakota Minnesota 89. 5/23/22 4,000 ducks destroyed at Duck farm Berks Pennsylvania 90. 5/29/22 A Saturday night fire destroyed a poultry building at Forsman Farms 91. 5/31/22 3,000,000 chickens destroyed by fire at Forsman facility in Stockholm Township, Minnesota 92. 6/2/22 30,000 ducks destroyed at Duck farm Berks Pennsylvania 93. 6/7/22 A fire occurred Tuesday evening at the JBS meat packing plant in Green Bay. 94. 6/8/22 Firefighters from Tangipahoa Fire District 1 respond to a fire at the Purina Feed Mill in Arcola 95. 6/9/22 Irrigation water was canceled in California (the #1 producer of food in the US) and storage water flushed directly out to the delta. 96. 6/12/22 Largest Pork Company in the US Shuts Down California Plant Due to High Costs 97. 6/13/22 Fire Breaks Out at a Food Processing Plant West of Waupaca County in Wisconsin These fires are not “normal” as some would have you believe. I’m not shouting conspiracy but I do feel this is a crazy “coincidence”. Really? That’s what we’re supposed to believe? Riiiiight… Like I said, I believe it’s somewhere in between these extreme views. One thing that I do believe, this is not good for the food consumers in this country. I don’t think it would be out of line to prepare food for a time when it is either very expensive (fast approaching), or scarce (which is happening in some areas with some products). Look at your food storage program. Tweek it or add to it as you feel is needed. I’m not advocating hoarding or panic buying, but if you have no food storage, this is the time to start. If you have food storage, take a look at it and assess where it is and enhance where needed. These fires may mean nothing, or they may make a difference in availability. Either way, be prepared. Semper Paratus Check 6 Burn

Friday, December 14, 2018

Monthly Read: Book Review For December

Once a month I will review and recommend a book. I know in this digital world that paper books are a little out dated. Most hard copy books are now in digital form, often in PDF. I would recommend a good well rounded hard copy library in your home. Some of the best books are old and out of print. There are certain publishers and authors I really like. This will be books I like and really only my opinion. If you’d like to recommend a book for me to review e-mail me and we can make it happen. The subjects will be varied but will have to do with the theme of this website, LDS Gunsite. Guns, preparedness, LDS History, security, self-defense, and patriotism are just a few examples. I have a big library of mostly reference books so I will draw heavily from that. Some books may be old and out of print. But most will be books you can find on Amazon.

December

“Ditch Medicine-Advanced Field Procedures For Emergencies” By: Hugh L. Coffee

Publishers Review
Hugh Coffee (Team Medic / Ditch Medicine / First Aid Instructor) has worked as a paramedic / firefighter for over thirty years. During this time, he held both line and administrative EMS positions at the county and state levels. He has provided emergency medical care and instruction in the austere environments of Guatemala, Kenya, Sudan, and Peru. In 1985, Hugh earned a Masters Degree in Public Administration from Georgia State University. He is the author of Ditch Medicine and numerous magazine articles.
Whether it's a war zone or a civil disaster area, traumatic injuries often occur in remote, unsanitary locations. This book teaches advanced field procedures for small wound repair, care of the infected wound, IV therapy, pain control, amputations, treatment of burns, airway procedures and more.

My review
This is a great reference book but should really only be used by someone with some medical training. But in an emergency it is good to have the information. This is not a first aid manual. When the title says “advanced” it really means it. The book is written with the layman in mind. It is simple and even has many drawings and pictures. I would recommend it for your preparedness library.

Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn

Friday, November 17, 2017

Monthly Read: Book Review For November

Once a month I will review and recommend a book. I know in this digital world that paper books are a little out dated. Most hard copy books are now in digital form, often in PDF. I would recommend a good well rounded hard copy library in your home. Some of the best books are old and out of print. There are certain publishers and authors I really like. This will be books I like and really only my opinion. If you’d like to recommend a book for me to review e-mail me and we can make it happen. The subjects will be varied but will have to do with the theme of this website, LDS Gunsite. Guns, preparedness, LDS History, security, self-defense, and patriotism are just a few examples. I have a big library of mostly reference books so I will draw heavily from that. Some books may be old and out of print. But most will be books you can find on Amazon.

"LDS Preparedness Manual 2012" Compiled By: Christopher Parrett

Publishers review:
This manual has been prepared for, and is intended to be read primarily by, the active members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints.

Please Note
The contents of this booklet are intended to assist individuals and families in coping with emergency preparations. However, final decisions on preparation for actions taken during an emergency are the sole responsibility of individuals. No one knows your needs or can take care of you better than you can-nor does anyone else have that responsibility. Information and examples contained within this booklet are provided for illustration and advice only. Therefore, no liability is assumed by the Editor or any of the Authors for the use or misuse of any information or products contained in this publication.

This publication has not been endorsed or produced by The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints, and its contents and the opinions it expresses are those of the Editor and the separate authors. While it should not be construed as an official church publication, effort has been made to ensure that all materials are in accordance with general church guidelines on food storage and family preparedness.


LDSGunsite Review:
I love this manual because of its thoroughness. It covers a broad spectrum of preparedness subjects and is great reference. I believe in finding good books for your preparedness library and having the actual hard-copy books. Putting together an electronic library and keeping it on a portable device or stick is a good idea, but I also like an actual hard-copy of these things. I don’t necessarily believe in the end-of-world, everything goes down scenario, but I do believe in contingencies. It may not be probable, but it is possible. I like that this manual covers so much. It’s the great variety that makes it so valuable. The Fact that it is free is also a wonderful bonus. There is a LDS leader version that can be obtained by contacting the author. I would wholeheartedly recommend this manual. I'm also under the impression that this manual will be updated from time to time so look for new editions in the future.

Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Some Phone Apps To Consider

There are several apps available for your phone or pad that have great preparedness applications. I’d like to review three.
The first is an app called “First Aid” and it is produced by the American Red Cross. This is a great source for first aid information. I like the idea of having this information with me as long as I have a phone and battery power.
Accidents happen, and honestly no matter what your training may be, we don’t always know what to do with everything. That said, the Red Cross’ official First Aid app provides simple step-by-step instructions to guide you through everyday first aid scenarios. It covers asthma attacks to broken bones. It also supplies you with a host of informative quizzes and safety tips regarding natural disasters such as hurricanes, and given that it preloads all content in advance, you never have to worry about whether you have a tower signal. The app puts expert advice for everyday emergencies in your hands. It has videos, and simple step-by-step advice.

Features
• Easy to use Spanish language toggle to switch translation directly inside the app.
• Simple step-by-step instructions guide you through everyday first aid scenarios.
• Fully integrated with 9-1-1 so you can call EMS from the app at any time.
• Videos and animations make learning first aid fun and easy.
• Safety tips for everything, from severe winter weather to hurricanes, earthquakes and tornadoes help you prepare for emergencies.
• Preloaded content means you have instant access to all safety information any time, even without reception or an Internet connection.
• Interactive quizzes allow you to earn badges that you can share with your friends and show off your lifesaving knowledge.
I like this app. It is done well and has a lot of information at your fingertips. I would recommend it.
The app is called First Aid by American Red Cross and is available in iOS (iPhone) or Android operating systems.
The second app is called Disaster Alert (PDC).
Disaster Alert is an app from the Pacific Disaster Center (PDC). It displays information on current global disasters, including droughts, floods, wildfires, earthquakes, and heavy storms.
An overview of natural disasters is shown on an interactive world map. You can click on the disaster alert symbol to receive a summary of the current event status, when it was first reported, and when it was last updated. By Active Hazards the developers mean current and real-time incidents that could be “potentially hazardous to people, property or assets.” This includes everything from hurricanes, earthquakes, and tsunamis to areas of drought or serious health risk.
For more information, you can visit a page dedicated to the event on the PDC website by clicking the blue arrow symbol.
Like the First Aid app this app is available in iOS (iPhone) or Android operating systems.
I can also recommend this application. I have a separate app for earthquakes. It’s called Quake Feed Earthquakes. It only covers earthquakes though and I wanted more.
Last but not least is The Free Shot Timer. This is a shot timer for shooting at the range.
The Free Shot Timer is the best shot timer app for multiple reasons. The best part is that it’s free. The Free Shot Timer App is easy to install on your iPhone, making it one less gadget you have to remember to bring to the shooting range. The display is very easy to read and utilize, and it uses different colors and sizes of numbers to quickly portray data and comparisons for the user. The start can be delayed from zero to four seconds, and there’s even a random start that buzzes two to five seconds after you press the start button. All of your shooting data can be saved, and you can even email results to yourself or others. If you have AirPrint, then you can also print your data right from your phone! The Free Shot Timer is a fantastic app that’s perfect for anybody who is new to collecting data on their shooting. If you’re simply someone who wants to enhance their skills and know more about their abilities, then a free app may be a much better choice than shelling out over $100 for a manual shot timer. Obviously, if you’re a serious competitor, then a shooting app probably is not the best buy you could make. However, I think the Free Shooting Timer app is the timer with the easiest display to read and the most memory storage. Unfortunately this app is only available in iOS so it’s limited to an iPhone.
Information is always important in being prepared. These apps can help.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn

Friday, April 28, 2017

.38 Special: Love/Hate Relationship

As is usual, I go to the range and come back with a story. The other day I went to shoot .357 and .38 Special revolvers. I like to do this about once a month in my training program. I shoot exceptionally well with a wheel gun. But I don’t really like them for EDC (everyday carry). It’s nothing but personal preference.
We flew to visit my in-laws several years ago. I didn’t want to take a gun because I knew my Father in-law would let me borrow something to carry. He has been around guns, shooting, and hunting his entire 70 plus years. He told me I was too modern for him. He knew I was an instructor but what he didn’t know was when I was in the military they were in the process of leaving .38 Special revolvers and moving to the Beretta M9. I taught the use of, and qualification course for, the revolver, M9, M16A2, and M60E3.
First introduced way back in the early 1900s, the world-famous .38 Special is but one of the tools that helped propel America to where we are today. The Special was once the primary law enforcement round used by police. It still has a place today in certain hunting applications, with both revolvers and rifles, and is still used in self-defense over 110 years later.
Something that is little known about the .38 SPC (or SPL), is that it doesn’t actually fire a “38” caliber bullet as you’d think about modern bullet measurements. Rather, the .38 is a “35” caliber bullet, which is why you can fire it through a .357 Magnum revolver. I want to point out here, however, that while you can shoot a thirty-eight through a gun chambered in the .357 Magnum cartridge, you should never shoot a .357 Magnum through a .38 Special chambered gun.
While they share many similarities, the Magnum’s cartridge is loaded to much higher pressures and cannot be fired in a gun only chambered in .38. The Magnum is a bit longer so they might not even fit in your gun. Either way, don’t try it.
Even though the .38 Special is as popular as ever, it lacks terminal ballistics associated with many of the other modern self-defense cartridges on the market. In a world where you and I defend ourselves with a gun, .38 Special is one of the least powerful you would want to use (to include .32 Mag, .380 ACP, and .327).
I can almost hear you thinking, but it has such a huge case! How could such a big round be so “eh” in its performance?
Well, things aren’t always what they would seem. Sure, the case is big. Much bigger than many of the semi-auto self-defense pistols on the market. But, just because it has a big case, doesn’t mean it’s filled all the way to the top with gun powder.
Because the .38s are only rated for 17,000 PSI (which is really low), it can only hold so much powder, safely.
There are essentially two trains of thought for self-defense guns. They are as follows:
1. Big, slow bullets create a bigger wound channel, and, are thus better for self-defense even though they move much slower.
2. Small, faster moving bullets do more damage because they travel further into the body.
There are positives to both. The .38 Special packs a slow moving, medium sized bullet. Generally speaking, they can be found from 110 grains up to 158 grains. They move at lackluster speeds, with most, if not all of them (including the +P rounds) staying below the 1,000 FPS mark.
Many of the more popular thirty-eight loads move much slower than that in the 750 FPS range. Again, in terms of self-defense, this is the lowest you’d want to go. If you don’t believe it, keep in mind a Defensive Gun Use story where a mother stopped a would be attacker in her house to save her kids. She used a .38 Special revolver, and seemingly placed 5 shots on her attacker.
He walked back to his car and drove off before needing medical attention, and lived to tell the tale.
On the other hand, she did stop the attack with the gun. Had she not had it with her, the outcome would have been remarkably different.
I was in a gun store the other day and when some other customers found out I was an instructor they asked the eternal question: “What gun should I buy for home defense?”
I hate this question! First of all it’s loaded one (excuse the pun). It’s a loaded question because a gun for home defense will be different for me than it would be for you. I’m pretty confident in my shooting. Not to boast but I feel I would not miss if ever confronted in my home with a threat. I guess it’s possible, but not probable. But then again I’ve been shooting guns for almost 40 years. I have been a military and civilian instructor, have competed, and have carried a gun for almost 25 years. I’ve had many years of training and when I point a gun at something, I usually hit what I’m aiming at. So for me, an AR with a light and laser sight is a perfect home defense weapon. But if you have little to no experience with a gun, I’d suggest quite a different weapon. This couple did say that the guy had carried a Glock 19 for a year. I asked about their experience, it was as small as their training. I first suggested a home defense course. Then I suggested whichever gun they chose for home defense, to practice at a range at least monthly, or more if they could. Then I suggested a short barreled (at least 16 inches to be legal) shotgun loaded with bird shot. When they asked about the ammo load, I said, “Trust me, that is the load for you.” I’ve personally tested shotgun loads on real world house building materials. Anyway, then they asked about a carry weapon for her. I asked similar questions and then suggested a .38 special or .357 magnum revolver like the Airweight Smith and Wesson, or a quality auto loader in .380 or 9mm.

In my honest opinion, double-action .38 Special revolvers may not be “state-of-the-art” but they are stable in the art. To me, it’s a no brainer. Double-action .38 Special revolvers are easy handguns to train with. Opening one for loading consists of no more than pressing a latch or button and swinging the cylinder out. There’s no trick to getting chambers charged since cartridges can only fit in one direction. I’ve actually seen novices try to load semi-auto magazines with the rounds backwards. Then the cylinder is pushed closed till it clicks in place. That’s all there is to it.
A double-action revolver requires merely pressing the trigger to fire. There’s no safety to remember, and no moving slide to bite hands. Most double actions can also be fired single action, which is an aid when gaining familiarization with the handgun, or weak hands, even if not optimum for a potentially deadly situation.
Then there’s the ammo factor. Some semi-autos can be amazingly finicky about ammo.
Conversely, a .38 Special double-action revolver always works if it’s in good repair. They’re about as foolproof as a handgun can get. Good quality factory ammo ranges from very light full wadcutter loads meant for target shooting, to +P types meant for personal defense. The .38 Special might have a bad rap among those who see nothing less than big bores as effective, but effective only counts if hits are made. Almost anyone can learn to handle a .38 Special with proficiency. That’s not true of big-bore handgun calibers.
So there you have it. My little promotion of the .38 Special/.357 Magnum. Enjoy it because you probably will never see me talking about again. I know I didn’t dis the caliber or type of gun. I would never do that. But it’s just never been my favorite type of gun or caliber. I shoot them to stay proficient and sometimes I do enjoy them. Not the same as a 1911 in my hands, but on occasion I enjoy them. The down side of them to me is lack of number of rounds, non-ease of reloading, even with a speed loader (I’m not Jerry Miculek, ok?) It really comes down to my personal preference. Much to my father-in-law’s non-surprise I love autoloaders.

Semper Paratus
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Thursday, September 1, 2016

Review: PrettyLoaded.org and National Situational Awareness Day

I subscribe to a blog/website called Pretty Loaded (http://prettyloaded.org/). They are great in their articles and reviews and I’d like to add them to our recommended reading/links. They have made videos that are done very well and teach/train safety especially for girls and women. I’ve forwarded their videos to my daughters and wife and I have learned much from them.

They have created National Situational Awareness Day that is officially starting this month on September 26th. This has been approved by the registrar of the National Day Calendar.

They say “Situational Awareness is a skill that everyone can use immediately to improve their personal safety.”

Also

“What Can You Do TODAY?


Situational Awareness is one of the keys to help you and your loved ones remain safe when confronted by a predator or any general personal safety threat. You have an opportunity RIGHT NOW to build that plan of action.


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Pay attention to your surroundings at all times.

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Be in a general relaxed state of alertness with no specific focal point. You are not looking for anything or anyone in particular; you simply have your head up and your eyes open. You are difficult to surprise, so therefore, you are difficult to harm.

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Look for anything that seems out of the ordinary.

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Watch people’s eyes, hands and body language.

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Look for anything hazardous like a pothole, moving cars, loose boards on a deck, people walking with guns, etc…

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Pay attention to 30-50 feet all around you since you will have enough time to move and get away if you need to.
What is Situational Awareness?

Situational awareness is really just another way of being mindful of your surroundings. Developing this skill will make you more present in daily activities, which in turn helps you make better decisions in all aspects of life.

The concept of situational awareness was identified during World War I by Oswald Boelke who realized ‘the importance of gaining an awareness of the enemy before the enemy gained a similar awareness, and devised methods for accomplishing this.’

In a dangerous situation, being aware of a threat even a few seconds early may keep someone safe by giving them time to act instead of react. The lack of or inadequate situational awareness has been identified as one of the primary factors in accidents attributed to human error.

Although situational awareness skills seem to be lacking in modern society, our ancestors used these skills to survive. It has been extensively taught for decades to law enforcement and the military, but it is not exclusive to them.

Most safety experts agree that situational awareness is the number one skill to learn for the safety of everyone.

Situational Awareness Day highlights the importance of using situational awareness skills in every day life to stay out of harm’s way. Harm may come in the form of walking in front of a moving car or that of an assailant, both of which can happen from any myriad of distractions which cause one to not be aware of the surroundings and situation.

The date of September 26th was chosen because it is the birthday of Dru Sjodin, one of the inspirations to start Pretty Loaded. To spread awareness of this important day, use #NationalSituationalAwarenessDay on social media platforms. Discuss its importance with those around you. Be human again and pay attention to the people and events happening around you more than you pay attention to modern day distractions. Situational Awareness is celebrated once a year and practiced 365 days a year!

Thank you for all of the support we have received from all over the world! When you share our blogs and videos, YOU are helping to save lives! We want you to know that we greatly appreciate all the support from the Pretty Loaded community worldwide!”

Don’t forget National Situational Aware day on the 26th and please support this great website!

Semper Paratus
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Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Review: Alcohol Stoves

I love to camp and backpack. The older I get the more difficult some parts get. Bad knees and hard ground are not conducive to outdoor life. But when I can I do. When I was younger I camped a lot. I have been a Boy Scout leader for many years and had the opportunity to camp and hike all over this country. As you may have gathered if you’ve read past posts I am a stickler for weight. SWB I use for size, weight, bulk. Ounces are everything whether you are backpacking, camping, or building a bug out bag or first aid kits. I like light weight and multiple use gear. So when I found a stove that weighs less than 3 ounces, burns in blissful silence, features no complicated moving parts, and uses a low-cost and widely available fuel I was hooked. Plus it is inexpensive, durable, and ultra-simple to use. Meet the alcohol stove, a featherweight cooker that can instantly shave a pound or more off your packweight. Its unique design smokes the competition in many ways—just be prepared to make a few sacrifices if you want a cook system that weighs less than a gulp of water.
The Heavyweights
First let's review the chunky contenders: white gas and canister stoves. White gas stoves feature a burner and separate pump (8 to 16 ounces combined), plus a requisite fuel bottle (3 to 7 ounces empty, depending on size). They are bulky, noisy, pricey, and require pumping, priming, and some regular care and maintenance.
Canister stoves burn a pressurized propane/butane mix from a metal cartridge. The burner itself may be very lightweight (as little as 3 ounces) and inexpensive, but the canisters are relatively heavy (4 to 6 ounces empty), costly, and difficult to recycle. Both stove types do have their distinct advantages, of course, notably rapid boil times.
The Featherweight
Compared to the competition, alcohol stoves represent the ultimate in simplicity and lightness. Pour an appropriate alcohol fuel into the burner, light it, and within seconds you'll be cooking over a silent flame. When it comes to heft and cost, these stoves dominate the field. A wide range of styles are available that weigh less than 3 ounces. Some fall below 2 ounces, and the very lightest hover around only a single ounce. You can build one yourself for minimal expense or purchase a manufactured model for less than $20.
Cook Light, Boil Slow
Patience is a virtue when it comes to cooking with an alcohol stove. Alcohol fuel contains approximately half the energy by weight of white gas or butane/propane. As a result, the heat output is proportionately less—and cook times are a lot longer. Most white gas and canister stoves can boil a pint of water in under three minutes. Alcohol stoves generally take at least twice as long, about six to eight minutes in good conditions. They are also much more sensitive to wind; a windscreen is essential for even the lightest breeze. Some models have an integrated windscreen around the burner, a nice feature that helps fully capture available heat.
Fuel for the Fire
A variety of widely available fuels work in alcohol stoves; clean-burning denatured alcohol and methanol are the most common. Most alcohol stoves won't hold fuel during transit, however. If fuel remains after cooking, you must either burn it off or pour it back into its container—a potentially tricky operation. If the stove goes dry, you must wait for it to cool before adding more fuel. Gauging the right amount for your needs requires experience and practice. Most alcohol stoves also have only one flame setting. This is fine for bringing water to a boil, but suboptimal for gourmets looking to simmer their meal. Compared to highly flammable white gas, alcohol fuel is significantly less hazardous to carry. (Many hikers store it in small plastic bottles to minimize weight.) Its primary risk is a nearly invisible flame, which creates an increased potential for burns. Note that alcohol stoves perform poorly in subfreezing temperatures and are not recommended for winter trips.
Species and Locations
Many commercially-produced alcohol stoves exist, but don't expect to see them in your local outdoor gear shop—most are manufactured by tiny companies or by individuals and can be found only online. Alternatively, you can make your own. Plans are widely available online for converting aluminum soda cans, Altoids tins, and other common products into your next ultralight cooking companion.
A Google of You tube search will bring many different designs and styles that you can buy or make. I’ve bought some and have made some. I am partial to the commercial made, heavier duty stoves. Don’t let the word heavy deceive you. These are still featherweight.
Fuel
Here's a quick list of the most common stove fuels and where you'll most likely find them:
• denatured alcohol (hardware store, paint department)
• pure methanol from hardware store (paint department)
• pure ethanol (Everclear, liquor store)
• fuel line antifreeze (gas station or convenience store).
• rubbing alcohol (drug store).
Denatured alcohol gets my recommendation for the best all-around fuel for any stove that burns alcohol. It is quite cheap and usually available in hardware stores. Denatured alcohol is mostly ethanol with some methyl alcohol added to render it unfit for human consumption. Often a coloring or smell agent is also added for visual or olfactory cues that the substance is not drinkable. One drawback, though, of this fuel is that you must buy a minimum of 32 fluid ounces. This is probably much more than you want to take on the trail. Go in on a can with some friends, or buy a small container to take what you need with you. It should be noted, though, that denatured alcohol does contain methanol (toxic, about 16%), methyl ethyl ketone(<1%), and methyl acetate(<1%) which makes it less environmentally friendly than pure ethanol.

Pure ethanol also makes a good stove fuel, but is much more expensive than denatured because it is potable. You can find it in liquor stores as "grain alcohol"; Graves Grain Alcohol and Everclear are some brand names. Pure ethanol may be harder to find and more expensive than other fuels, but it is the fuel of choice if toxicity or environmental friendliness are at the top of your concerns.

Pure methanol (wood alcohol) burns very well in a stove. It can be found in the same sorts of places as denatured alcohol (hardware stores). It has a relatively high vapor pressure as compared to ethanol and isopropanol; this means that it will vaporize at lower temperatures. Because of this property your stove will achieve full power more quickly. Many people use this fuel because of this fact; however, methanol is toxic. It is readily absorbed through the skin or mucus membranes. Once in the body it is converted by the liver to formaldehyde, a very poisonous chemical. Short term exposure to methanol is probably not a big deal, but be aware of this drawback.

Fuel line antifreezes are usually pure isopropanol or pure methanol. Look at the ingredients of the bottle to find out which is which. You can usually find these in gas stations or convenience stores, especially up north. A popular brand is HEET; the red bottle is isopropyl and the yellow bottle is methanol. Isopropyl alcohol burns with yellow, sooty flames, indicating that it is not combusting completely. It is less toxic than methanol, though.

Rubbing alcohol is 70% isopropanol and 30% water. Sometimes you can find it at a 91% isopropanol and that is better for fuel. You can find it in drug stores. It has all the problems associated with burning pure isopropanol with the added inconvenience of having 30% of its volume being noncombustible water. It'll do in a pinch, but given the choice I'd go with something else.
I love alcohol stoves and you should too. Make one, borrow one, or buy a cheap one to see if this is good for you. I’ve found many a camper not happy with alcohol stoves. Camping usually is not weight sensitive unless you are backpacking everything in or out, then this kind of stove would really shine. I like them myself.

Semper Paratus
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Monday, January 11, 2016

Staying Warm: Wool Blankets

Winter is in full swing. Unless you live in the Southwest, and even some locations there, you may be dealing with extreme cold and snow. It takes someone smart to stay warm.
At one time, woolen blankets were found in every home, but today, the majority of our blankets are woven of cottons or acrylic fibers which are fairly easy care. But don't let that deter you from owning or inheriting pure wool blankets they're not that hard to care for and they'll keep you very warm on a cold night. Just a few tips on caring and storing is all you need and you can start to enjoy these warm covers.
The Technical Side of Wool.
Each wool fiber (measuring about a thousandth of an inch in diameter, depending on the grade) consists of a bundle of corticle cells, made up of polypeptide chains arranged in coils. These corticle cells are wrapped up in a scaly outer layer called a cuticle, which in turn is covered by a filmy skin called an epicuticle. The epicuticle actually sheds drops of water.
In addition, raindrops are less likely to break up on the surface of wool and seep through than with other fabrics, since the fuzziness of the fibers cushions the fall. So in a light rain, much of the water runs right off, the fabric hardly getting damp at all.
But the real genius of the wool fiber lies in its ability to cope with the high humidity that you may get during rainstorms or at other times. The sheep (they may look stupid, but it's all an act) have cleverly equipped the epicuticle with tiny pores that allow water vapor to pass through to the core, where it's chemically absorbed. A single fibre can slurp up to 30 percent of its own weight in moisture without feeling wet.
Wool does act as a natural insulator, thanks to its built-in crimp. The fibers repel each other, keeping a bit of dead air in between them. But it's the epicuticle that does the heavy lifting when it comes to keeping you warm despite the wet What type of Blanket?
Purchasing a blanket made of 100% wool is best, but hard to come by. A Blanket made of 80% wool, or above will give you similar results as a 100% wool blanket does. Just be sure the weaving is the right kind. If you want a long lasting blanket, that can be washed many times, you want to ask for a "Loom woven" blanket. A less expensive, but with limited washings (if any) is a "Needle-punch" blanket. Learning the difference between the two types of weave will help you decide what blanket to Purchase.
What is a "loom woven" wool blanket?

The yarn from two directions are actually woven together.

Produces a very durable, warm and long lasting wool blanket that is suitable for machine washing and drying.

Recommended for facilities that will wash and dry woolen blankets on a regular basis.
What is a "needle-punch" or "non-woven" wool blanket?

Blended fibers of wool and synthetic are intertwined with thousands of needles above and below, producing a felt-like blanket material.

Produces a warm, limited-use wool blanket for disaster and emergency relief.

This inexpensive process allows for large quanties of wool blankets to be produced quickly and sold at a low cost to humanitarian organizations.

Not recommended for machine washing.
 
What's So Great About Wool?
Wool is water resistant. The quality that distinguishes wool fibers from hair or fur is the presence of a hard, water- repellent outer layer that surrounds each hollow fiber, overlapping like shingles on a roof. The fiber's core absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture vapor without becoming damp or clammy, while the hard outer layer protects against outside liquid moisture. Water is repelled, but humidity is absorbed, and that helps with thermal regulation.
Wool is moisture wicking. Besides keeping outside moisture away from the skin, wool also wicks away perspiration. When you sweat, that sweat cools your skin—which is not what you want when it's cold outside. Wool fibers absorb perspiration and wick it away from your body, thus keeping you warm and dry.
Wool is a wonderful insulator. The crimp of the wool produces insulating air spaces that retain body heat. These warm air pockets next to the skin are kept dry while the hollow wool fibers absorb moisture vapors and the hard outer surface moves liquid moisture away from the body.
Wool regulates temperature and is breathable. Wool has a very wide comfort range, essential for adapting to changing weather conditions. This unique property makes wool the perfect fiber to be used in the production of outerwear, because it has the versatile ability to warm in colder conditions and cool in warmer conditions.
Wool blends well. Wool can be blended with many different natural and synthetic fibers to create a multitude of fabric options.
Wool helps Allergies. Wool is an inhospitable environment for dust mites.
Sensitive Skin Alert. Persons who have allergies or sensitive skin may find pure wool blankets or fabrics irritating on their skin.
Here are a few tips to help you prolong the use of a wool blanket:
Beat and brush the blanket: Every few days, simply slap the blanket against a door, pipe, fence, etc. Then use a soft to medium stiff horse brush (not a metal curry comb), and brush the hair and dander from the blanket. This won’t take more than 5 minutes of your time.
Wash the blanket: Every 60 to 90 days, wash the blanket in a tub of cold water. For best results, put your blanket in a tub of water and let it soak for a least an hour. Then, as best you can "wring" the blanket in the water, then "wring"
it out of the water.
Hang the blanket over a rail: (like the top rail of a fence), and with a soft to medium brush, lightly brush the blanket on both sides. Let the blanket air dry completely, then slap it against a door or fence until it feels as soft as a brand new one.
NOTE: It is best Not to use soap when washing wool blankets. The blanket will retain much of the soap (even soaps made specifically for wool). When the blanket becomes wet with sweat, the residual soap may seep throughout the very porous wool, and irritate a horse’s back.
After a few washings, the color will of course begin to fade. This has no bearing on the usefulness of the blanket in serving it’s true purpose. You might find that you prefer an older, faded, soft blanket next to your horse’s back. After all, the concept is to protect your horse’s back and keep them comfortable
 
 
How to wash your wool Blanket…
The rule of thumb for all pure wool clothing and blankets is to wash in cold water and gently wring or use the delicate cycle and low spin on your washer. It's no longer necessary to handwash woolen items, as most washers now have a delicate agitation cycle and low spin feature. Heat can and usually does shrink woolens, reducing them in size and ruining their appearance. Cold water and gentle washing will help keep your woolens in good condition.
Wool requires special care. It is important to read the care label of your wool blankets. Some wool blankets are washable.
Others will need to be dry cleaned. Once wool has been shrunk, there is no way to retrieve the original size - so be careful! If your wool blanket's care label says that it is machine washable, wash in cold water and lay flat to dry, unless otherwise stated.
Yes, they can be dry cleaned if you prefer. All of them can be washed, but the technique for washing has changed in the last few year.
Easy Soak
If your wool blanket is washable you may wish to try the easy soak method. It that saves energy and prevents shrinkage. Use lukewarm water and an unbuilt synthetic detergent. Unbuilt detergents are those are those containing no soap and no builders such as washing soda, borax, and other chemical compounds that are alkaline. All soaps and all water softeners contain alkalis, which are damaging to wool.
First pretreat any spots or especially soiled areas with detergent. Dampen the area and apply the detergent with a soft brush or sponge. You can use the easy soak method in either tub or washing machine.
1. Fill the washer with lukewarm water, add the detergent, then put your blanket in.
2. Without operating the washer, let the blanket soak for 15-20 minutes.
3. Then turn it over once or twice by hand and spin off the water.
4. Refill the machine with lukewarm water and with washer off let the blanket soak-rinse for 5 minutes.
5. Spin out the water. Dry by hanging the wool blanket on a taught line with a fold in the middle. Or hang the blanket over parallel lines placed about a foot apart for quicker drying. The blanket should be in the shade.
Some other options are to hang wool blankets outside in summer and let them air dry. If that's not possible, you could hang a slightly damp blanket over a door or lay it across a few chair backs and it will dry overnight. A non-rusting shower or towel bar is also a good option.
Do not use clothes-pins; they will leave a mark. When the blanket is thoroughly dry, fluff the nap up with a stiff brush and press the bindings, but not the blanket.
A moth-proofing mixture (EQ-53) can be added to the second rinse if desired. The blanket can then be stored safely in the linen closet without wrapping. This method of washing blankets gives fine results. The detergents rinse out easily, leaving the blankets soft and fluffy. There is less shrinking, matting, or stretching than if the blanket was agitated in a washer or squeezed and rubbed by hand.
 
 
Storing Wool Blankets.
Since woolen blankets are usually stored when not required, it's important to protect them in storage from pests and dampness. Years ago, moth balls were used to keep insects from destroying the wool fibers, but this method left a lasting, hard-to-get-rid-of unpleasant scent that permeated the whole room.
Today, you can easily store these blankets in a tightly-sealed bin or heavy plastic bag. If pests are a real concern in your area, you can add a few cedar chips which are available from most general merchandise outlets. Cedar wood is a natural flying insect repellent and is a good alternative to moth balls.
How to get odors out of a blanket?
Some staining substances can leave a strong residual odor which remains even after repeated cleanings. There is a treatment that may be effective when standard cleaning methods are not. It is called an ozone treatment and is particularly useful for organic based odors. Ozone treatments are occasionally available through dry cleaners. You can also look for an ozone treatment facility in the phone book; look under "ozone" or "fire restoration" (ozone treatments are often used for the removal of smoke odor) on the internet.
Protecting wools from moth damage?
To best protect wools from moths, it helps to first know when wools are susceptible to this type of insect damage.
Moth damage to wools mainly occurs during storage or when wool articles are not moved or worn on a regular basis.
Clothes moths, which are small buff-colored moths, choose dark, quiet, undisturbed places to lay eggs. It's the moth larvae that feed on wool, not the adult moths. Knowing that wools are susceptible to moth damage during storage or inactivity, here are several easy steps that will generally prevent damage:
Clean your wool before placing in storage. Soiled wools (even those which have picked up invisible body oils) are more likely to attract moths. Both dry cleaning and laundering will remove any moth eggs or larvae.
After cleaning, store wools in an airtight bag or container.
Although the above steps should be effective for moth control, some consumers choose to use additional measures for moth control. Commonly-found moth control products on the market include moth balls, moth crystals, cedar (in various forms) and herbal sachets. Both the moth balls and crystals are very effective when used as directed.

Monday, September 28, 2015

Review: Leatherman Wingman Multi-tool for EDC

I’ve been carrying some kind of knife since I was about 9. At first it was my official Cub Scout pocket knife. This had the Cub emblem on the side, was black with silver tips on both ends, and had 3 blades. One thing I like about that knife is the large swivel D lanyard ring it had in one end. By the time I was a teen-ager I was carrying Swiss Army knives by Victorinox. I loved, and still love, these knives. They did so much! I carried these knives everywhere, including school, church, and government buildings! The times sure have changed. One of my rules that I’ve taught my kids is never leave home without a knife, or a gun. I know my children have always followed this rule most of the time. I usually give the kids I still have at home a knife every Christmas. I’ve had Young Women leaders raise their eye brows because one of daughters pull out a folder when someone asks for something to cut with. They ask my daughter if my parents know they have that knife. They just smile when they say “My Dad gave it to me for Christmas!” I know I’m known as the abusive parent. In Cub Scouting there is a training program called the Whittling Chip. My boys earned that as a Wolf in the Cub Scout program at about 9 years old. I take that program and teach it also to my daughters at that age. We review it yearly until my kids turn 12. By the time they are adults, they have a lot experience with knives. This is what we’ve done in our home, you and your spouse must decide what you will do with your children.
Let me say right here that I am not a knife guy. I’m a gun guy. I like weapons of all kinds, but am not really into knives. Having said that, I’d like to review the multi-tool Leatherman Wingman.
My first Leatherman was the basic survival multi-tool. It was about $30.00 in the 1980’s. Since then I’ve owned several Leatherman tools and even Gerber multi-tools.
I currently carry the Wingman and chose it specifically about 8 years ago. I was looking for several features that I did not have in my Gerber I was carrying at the time.
I had to have a tool that had scissors and a can opener on it. I had a Gerber that did not have scissors. Before that I carried a Leatherman that did not have a can opener but had scissors. I used both of those features so much I wanted them both when I went looking for a multi-tool again.
I also needed locking blades. Can’t tell you how many times I was using a screwdriver and had the screwdriver blade fold back in. Usually it hurt my hand! The Wingman has locking blades.
Pliers were always a plus with Leatherman products over Swiss Army knives. That was one of the draws that drew me away from the Swiss Army. Well the Wingman has not only pliers, but pliers that are spring loaded to stay open. I love that feature.
Something that stood out also is the knife and scissors are on the outside of the tool. That’s what bugged me about my first Leatherman, I had to open up the tool completely just to get to the knife.
Leatherman is made very well. You can feel the quality as you use the tool. Everything is solid and there is no wiggle or movement in any of the blades. The locks are built into the frame and are solid. The outside blade and scissors has a liner lock. Even the pliers have frame locks for positive opening of each side.
Leatherman uses 440A steel I assume because it can be stamped. That makes it easy to build compared to other hardened steels. Some balk at 440A but it’s a good steel. But the whole tool is steel. There is no plastic of any kind anywhere on the tool. Victorinox uses 440A and I’ve always liked their product. Knife purists don’t like this steel they want 154CM. I am happy with Leatherman’s products overall. I don’t need a knife that I can chop down a tree with! But that is just me.
Weighing in at 7 ounces I would consider this a mid-size tool.
The features are:
Knife blade ½ drop point, ½ serrated.
Scissors
Small slot-head screwdriver
Medium slot-head screwdriver
Phillips head screwdriver
1½ inch ruler in/cm
Metal/Wood file
Package opener
Bottle/Can opener
Needlenose and regular pliers
Wire cutter
Wire stripper
I like the heavy duty deep pocket clip. It can be removed but I leave it even though I carry it in a pouch. I like the option.
There is very little I don’t like about the Wingman. Let me explore the cons.
It’s a little heavy. 7 ounces is not too bad, I’ve seen some weighing 9 or 10 ounces. For me and my EDC weight is everything. I would prefer 5 ounces but I like the all steel tool.
The wire stripper sucks. I have used everything on this tool and I would not have known there was a wire stripper if I didn’t read the manual. It doesn’t work very well so I ended up stripping the wire with the knife blade. Maybe it’s the operator. I tried…
There is a tiny triangle hole that I use for a lanyard. I haven’t seen this feature referred to anywhere so maybe it’s not meant to be a lanyard hole. If it is meant to be, it’s too small. If not, I’ve managed to get some gutted 550 paracord in mine. It assists getting the tool out of a pouch. It’s not meant for that, they should consider putting something a little bigger in future models.
All in all I like more than I can find wrong. I think my cons are minor and they don’t even come close to over shadowing the positive features.
I would recommend a Leatherman Wingman for EDC or for a bugout bag. They are versatile, well priced, and rugged.

Semper Paratus
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