How Much Ammo Should You Store?

 Whenever I get asked, “How much ammo should I have?”  I then start asking questions of my own.  How often do you shoot?  What are your shooting goals?  What types of shooting do you do?  Are you stockpiling for prepping?  How much space do you have?

These questions let me be better in my understanding of the shooter and their needs before recommending how much they should stockpile.

So, how much ammo should you have? The shooter in me says you can never have too much, but my penny-pincher side sees that as a problem. 1,000 rounds for each firearm you own is a good minimum in most instances.

Let’s get a little more specific.

Things to Have in Mind Before Stocking Up on Ammo

I've found it best to implement a restocking system. That keeps me from panic-buying when prices skyrocket during an ammo shortage and saves me a lot of money. Buying in bulk is a significant portion of my restocking system. It helps me save more money than I would by buying in smaller quantities.

Here's how much ammo I like to have for each gun.

Handguns        5,000 rounds per firearm

Battle rifles     5,000 rounds per firearm

Shotguns          1,000 rounds per firearm

Hunting Bolt action rifles 1,000 rounds per firearm

I've always been a fan of keeping things as simple as possible, and my stockpiling system is no exception. The initial cost stings the most because I like to get started by buying in and then slowly building toward my stockpiling goal. I'm also a fan of doubling up on the savings by catching ammo when it's on sale. But I never buy all the rounds at once, unless it's just a deal I can't pass up.

Start with 500 to 1,000 rounds of the ammo you use the most and gradually grow your stockpile over time. I prefer to use the oldest ammo first, just to ensure I have fresh ammo, but I've stored ammo in a cool, dry place and used it decades later. My father-in-law recently gave me some shotgun shells he had in storage for longer than I've been alive (30+ years). They still fire, but I don't recommend waiting that long to use them.

Having a restock threshold is a great idea. Once you hit a specified minimum number of rounds, it's time to buy more. Personally, I don't like to dip below 500 rounds for most of my guns. I'd ideally have no fewer than 1,000 rounds before I start looking for the best ammo deals. I stockpile less self-defense and hunting ammo, as I don't use those rounds as often, so I'm comfortable with only 100 to 250 rounds of either.

• Step 1: Buy 500 to 1,000 rounds of your most-used ammo.
• Step 2: Slowly build your stockpile by timing bulk purchases and ammo sales.
• Step 3: Restock as needed when you reach your minimum number of rounds.
• Step 4: Repeat the process for every type of ammo your firearms are chambered for.

You should have as much ammo as you can afford and have room for.  I suggest storing your ammo in a fire-resistant safe to protect it from the elements and thieves. At the very least, you should have 1,000 rounds for each firearm you own.

Having ammo on hand is slightly different than having long term ammo. I consider "ammo on hand" to be easily accessible: not locked in a safe or buried under boxes. Whether they're preloaded in magazines or still in their boxes, these rounds are intended to be quickly loaded into your firearm and used for practice etc.

I like to keep 50 to 100 rounds handy at all times. Ninety percent of those are home defense ammo for my pistols and shotguns.

Long term is another topic altogether. You would ideally have thousands of rounds of ammo during an end-of-the-world situation.  But the above goals are sufficient.

Self-defense ammo is much more expensive, and you're less likely to use it, so I don't see a need to have thousands of rounds.

I do like to keep a couple of hundred rounds on hand and purchase more whenever I see an unbeatable price, though. My home defense ammo consists of 20-gauge, and 9mm, though I could narrow it down to just shotgun shells and one of my pistol cartridges if needed.

Answering the question "How much ammo should I have?" is incredibly personal. A competitive shooter will go through thousands of rounds more per year than a hunter or someone training for self-defense.

For beginners, I recommend starting with 1,000 rounds and seeing how long that lasts for you. Then, based on how long that ammo lasts, begin building a stockpile that will last you one to two or more years.

Happy stocking!

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

Carry Ammo Maintenance

 

The other day my wife caught me replacing ammo in her gun. Actually she didn’t really catch me she’s seen me do it before. She just noticed this time and asked questions. “How often do you replace ammo? Is the replaced ammo still good? What do you look for when inspecting ammo? Is there any other time you would rotate it?  What do you do with the replaced ammo?”
These were all good questions. I also have some other things I’d like to point out.
Defense guns and ammunition are special items. These tools you must have work when you need them. They should be what you consider the best. Or at least the best that you can afford. One of my home defense guns is a S&W auto compact 9mm. Would I rather have a Sig Saur or a Kimber? Sure. But I like my S&W and I am accurate with it. We have other guns of other calibers hidden through-out the house.
Anyway, I like to switch out my ammo in our carry guns and home defensive weapons every 6 months. This is just a conclusion I came to many years ago from experience. If you Google “rotate your ammo” you’ll find several articles and forum threads on this topic. I also consider what type of gun I’m keeping ammunition in.
The difference between a semi-auto pistol and a revolver is obvious. But not so much how each type of gun treats its ammo. With a revolver, your rounds are dropped smoothly into the chamber. Every surface of the ammunition, save the face of the bullet, is protected, and there is no high-impact insertion into the chamber. Autoloading pistols have a tendency to beat the daylights out of the first couple of rounds in the magazine. When the gun is loaded, the first round is slammed rather violently into the chamber. The second round is subject to the slide’s movement over its case, and if you load and unload frequently, these two probably get cycled in and out of the chamber more than once.
The “revolver or auto” question also pertains to any spare ammunition you carry. With extra mags for a semi-auto, all of the ammunition in the magazine is protected by the magazine body with the exception of the first round. If you carry a revolver, things are a bit different. If you carry spare rounds in a Speed Strip in your back pocket then after a month or two, the rounds on this strip are discolored and usually one or two of the cases is at least a little dented. If you carry speedloaders in belt holders (or magazines in magazine pouches), the ammo will probably not age as quickly but can still eventually encounter issues from exposure moisture and debris.  If you get caught in a rainstorm or fall in a pool change out your ammo.  Wet ammo can dry out but I would not want to use it in my carry weapon.
The next question you should be asking is, “How do I store the gun?” Is the gun a nightstand pistol that rarely leaves the bedside table? Is it a daily carry gun? Do you load and unload it daily? Your answers here may dictate how often you should rotate your ammunition. If the gun never leaves the bedside, the ammunition could probably last pretty much indefinitely. Because it is not exposed to sweat, humidity, temperature fluctuation, and daily handling, the ammunition should last much longer than ammunition in a carry gun. If you are like me and you check the condition of your firearm every time you put it into the holster, the ammunition in it can become a little worn and should be replaced more frequently.

You should inspect your ammunition occasionally. When I pull the rounds out of my gun, I am looking for some specific indicators that it should be replaced. First, I’m going to look at the bullet itself. Some discoloration from handling is normal, but alterations in the shape of the bullet are not. Did it get slammed into the feed ramp and is now misshapen as a result? This is probably a good indicator that the whole cartridge has suffered some abuse, and the change in shape may impact the bullet’s performance. If the bullet is deformed, replace those rounds.
Next, you should look at the position of the bullet in the case. A condition called “bullet setback” can occur when pressure is repeatedly applied to the bullet – from chambering and rechambering – and forces it backward into the case. This can compress the powder and create dangerously high chamber pressures, and ammunition exhibiting significant bullet setback should not be fired. If the bullet is set back, replace those rounds. Federal, Remington and Winchester all recommend that cartridges should not be chambered more than twice before being discarded. I usually shoot the rounds unless the setback is significant or there is other damage. (I reload so I have a bullet puller. I’ll pull the bullet and re-use the case if it’s not damaged)
Next, you should inspect the case. Non-nickel plated brass cases may be discolored. Some mild discoloration isn’t reason to remove them from duty, but corrosion is.
I then inspect for deformities, especially the kind that would prevent the round from feeding reliably. These include dents or slight bulges in the case or deformities around the case mouth. I find this to be most common with revolver cartridges carried in reloading strips. I carry these in my back pocket, so each time I sit they are liable to impact with whatever I am sitting on. If cases are badly corroded or deformed, get rid of them.
What do I do with the ammunition that comes out of the rotation? I shoot it. There is some value here, other than just an expensive range session. It also gives me confidence in my ammunition.
I admit this does cost a little money. For me, it’s totally worth it for the peace of mind in knowing that my ammunition will go “boom” when it has to.

The following story is by John Boch from The Truth About Guns

 https://concealednation.org/2017/09/why-you-should-rotate-your-carry-ammo/

Years ago, a retired cop at the police union building where I worked knew I taught guns on the weekends.  He asked a favor:  His niece found herself detailed to Darfur, Sudan (or a similar less-than-desirable destination) in her job for the State Department.  Knowing the city’s reputation, she and her hubby both thought it wise to seek out some pre-deployment training on the Beretta 92. They knew the Marines there would have M9s.  If things went badly, they hoped to acquire a Beretta or two from the security contingent.  In their minds, the Beretta surely beat a sharp stick.

So, Clyde, a retired University of Illinois police lieutenant, asked if I could spend a day with them.  Clyde himself trained plenty of cops in his day with guns.  Wisely, he sought outside help to teach family members.

He joined the niece and her husband – both novices to shooting for a Saturday at the range.  After an intensive day of training, they felt a lot better.  We started with the gun basics and firing the first shots.  From there, we covered movement off the “X”, communication, learning to shoot around barricades, malfunction drills, and much more.  Clyde pretty much stayed out of the way but complemented what I taught them nicely with his real-world experiences.  By the end of the day, the pair fired 250 rounds and laid in a fairly decent foundation in skill sets using my guns for the cost of ammo, lunch and a steak dinner for me.

At the end of the day, we shot recreationally.  The woman asked her uncle about his .357, the same gun he’d carried for a million years at UIPD and later as a part-time security guard at an off-track betting facility.  He pulls out his S&W from his duty belt.  Then he carefully lined up his sights and squeezed the trigger.  “Click!”

Some say there’s nothing louder than a “click” when you expect a bang, or a “bang” when you expect a click.  I’ll never forget that look of abject horror on his face.  “Ho-leee [bleep]!” he said, shaking his head, looking at that old workhorse.

He had fired that gun defensively more than once in his career.  In one instance in the late 60s, while pulling up on a shooting in progress on campus, he came under fire from a carload of Black Panthers.  He returned the favor, emptying a cylinder on them.  He learned about twenty years later he hit a couple of them around the edges.   On this day though, three of his six cartridges failed to fire from that cylinder, including the first two.  His reloads worked fine from his belt.

While he regularly cleaned his revolver, he did not regularly rotate his defensive ammo.  He admitted carrying those hollow-points for at least a couple of years.  I have little doubt that excess lubrication spoiled those rounds.  Excess oils in revolver cylinders will work into the cartridges through capillary action and neutered the primers.  Just another reason not to overlubricate chambers of revolvers or semi-auto pistols.

Caring for your carry gun and ammo is an important thing that can bring you great peace of mind and make a difference.  Don't forget to change out that ammo!

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

Reloading Ammo Safely: From "DIY Prepper"

 Is reloading ammunition safe?  I’ve had this question come up many times in this blog.  The answer is “Yes, if you’re not stupid.”  One of the things you learn real fast in military basic training is attention to detail.  Is it important to learn to fold your clothes to exact measurements?  No not really.  But if you can follow simple directions with exactness, then when it comes to life and death decisions that may require detail it will come easier.  That’s why it is taught.  Reloading is the same.  Like shooting, or using power tools, or driving a vehicle, reloading can be dangerous.  But if you learn the basics, pay attention to what you are doing, reloading can be a skill that will serve you for some time.  I find it relaxing.

Reloading ammo is dangerous under the following 3 circumstances:

1. The person reloading doesn’t know what they are doing. (Uneducated)

2. A stupid person is reloading. (Darwin-award recipient)

3. The reloader is careless. (Not paying attention)

Almost every dangerous situation that you could experience reloading ammunition can be traced directly back to those three things. If you are an intelligent human being who knows what they are doing and are paying attention, your chances of reloading safely are pretty good.

DIY Prepper has gone into detail concerning how to reload safely.  Here is his article.  

(By DIY Prepper August 30, 2019  diyprepper.com)      

“You Educate Yourself

Reloading ammunition is safe when you know what you are doing. Do some research and get help before you start. I learned the basics from a friend whom I met through work. You may be able to do the same, but if you can’t, you may be able to find an NRA Reloading Course near you.

Reloading manuals are excellent sources of information for a beginner or experienced reloader. In addition to loading data, many reloading manuals include safety tips and other helpful information. Youtube and forums are good sources of information as well, just don’t use them for load data.

You Pay Attention

Reloading ammo is safe when you pay attention to what you are doing. Avoiding distractions will reduce the chance of making a mistake. Watching TV and babysitting a screaming toddler are a couple of things that you shouldn’t do while reloading.

One of the most important things to pay attention to is the powder going into cases. First, you want to make sure you actually put powder into the case. This will prevent squibs, which are rounds that get lodged halfway down the barrel. When a squib round gets stuck in the barrel, the next round you fire will either bulge the barrel or make it blow up.

Also, make sure that you don’t put a double charge in the case. This will blow up a gun as well. (Amen brother!) This is more likely to occur with pistol calibers such as .38 Special but it can happen with others as well. In addition to paying attention, another good way to avoid double charges, or make them less likely, is to use a powder that fills up more of the case.

You Are Detail Oriented

Since reloading requires precision measurements, being detail-oriented is one of the best ways to make reloading safe. Before reloading, inspect your equipment to make sure it is calibrated properly. This is especially important in regard to your powder scale. 

As you are reloading, check measurements such as cartridge overall length. To do this, you will need to use a good set of calipers. This will help ensure that your reloaded rounds will chamber in a firearm properly and avoid pressure problems caused by improper bullet seating depth.

Another good thing to keep an eye on is primer seating depth. The flat surface of a primer should never be above the surface of the case head. Primers should be set firmly against the bottom of the primer pocket for them to work safely and reliably.

Another, often overlooked, aspect of being a detail-oriented reloader is attention to case preparation. This includes cleaning your cases, trimming them to the proper length, discarding damaged cases, and cleaning primer pockets. A little extra attention during the case prep stage can prevent problems later.

Store Your Components Properly

Reloading ammo is safe when you store your components properly. Extreme heat, cold, humidity, and other environmental factors can, over time, change how powders and primers will work.

Since my reloading setup is in my garage, I don’t store my powder and primers with the rest of my equipment. I store them in the house in ammo cans. This prevents them from being exposed to temperature fluctuations and humidity.

Also, never store powder or primers anywhere near an open flame or heat source. Doing so could cause a fire or explosion, which is obviously very bad.

Follow Instructions

Reloading ammo is safe when you follow instructions. This includes load data as well as setup instructions that came with your equipment. Since reloading is an activity that requires precision, you should follow instructions exactly.

Many people have had accidents due to a failure to follow instructions. One of the most common examples of this is trying to “hotrod” a load to get greater velocity. Don’t try to push a load because you think your gun can “handle it”. Many .40 caliber Glocks have experienced kabooms because of that type of thinking.

Also, follow load data for the specific bullet you are working with. The reason for this is that not all bullets of the same weight and caliber are the same. A solid copper bullet will have different dimensions than a lead bullet with a jacket, even though they may weigh the same thing. I like to have reloading manuals for each bullet manufacturer that I use.

Start Low and Work Your Way Up

Reloading ammo is safe when you start low and work your way up. Never start at your reloading manual’s maximum load. This can be dangerous, and many times isn’t necessary. The safest way to develop new loads is to start at the minimum load and work your way up.

To do this, load 3-5 cases with the minimum load, and then repeat the process with increasingly higher loads. However, do not go above the maximum load listed in your reloading manual. As you are testing the loads, watch out for pressure signs such as pierced primers and bent case rims.

Keep Records in your Manuals and on Boxes

Once you find a load that works safely in your gun and produces the accuracy you desire, you want to record it to make sure you don’t forget it. I always write my favorite loads in my reloading manuals next to the load data it came from.

I also record the recipe that I used on my ammunition boxes. Most plastic reloading boxes will include stickers that you can use for this purpose.

You Inspect Your Brass

Reloading ammo is safe when you keep an eye on your loads by inspecting your brass after you shoot. You should look for pressure signs and damaged brass. Given, finding your brass is easier with bolt guns and revolvers than it is with semi-automatic firearms. However, being able to inspect your brass will let you know if there are problems with your loads.

Inspect your brass after developing new loads and after shooting existing loads at different times of the year. Some loads that may be safe in the winter may exhibit warning signs when the temperature is hotter.

Wear Gloves

Another way to make reloading as safe as possible is to wear gloves. Ammunition contains all sorts of chemicals, some of which can be absorbed through your skin. Many of them are carcinogenic or cause other health problems.

To prevent health problems, I always wear Nitrile gloves while reloading or handling reloading equipment. Gloves such as these block harmful substances from coming into contact with my skin but don’t get in the way when I am trying to work.

Wear a Mask When Tumbling

One of the most potentially hazardous stages of the reloading process is tumbling cases. When a case is being cleaned in a tumbler, all of the residue from the outside of the case is being scrubbed off. When it leaves the case, its dust can become airborne when you are separating the cases from the tumbling media. One of the most dangerous components of this dust is lead.

Lead has been proven to cause numerous health problems. The big issue with lead is that its dust particulates are small enough to go through many masks, including N95’s. Because of this, it is a good idea to get a half-face respirator to wear whenever you are using your case tumbler or removing media. To block lead particulates, your mask’s filters should be rated at least N100.

Safely Reload by Understanding What Can Go Wrong

One of the best ways to ensure that you are reloading safely is to understand what not to do. If you are aware of what can hurt you, then just don’t do it. Here are some of the dangerous situations that may arise from improper reloading techniques and how to avoid them.

Primers are Explosive

Primers are probably the most dangerous reloading component that you will use. While powders are considered “propellants”, primers actually contain small amounts of explosives. Because of this, use caution when seating primers.

If a primer does not go into a case easily, stop to see what the problem is. If you try to force it into place, you may detonate the primer, along with all of the other primers that are around it. When using a hand primer, keep it away from and don’t point it near your face.

Improper Bullet Seating Depth Can Be Dangerous

When seating bullets, it is very important to stay within the specifications listed in your reloading manual. Not following those specifications will result in excessive pressure, which could damage the firearm and cause injury. These excessive pressures can result when the bullet is seated too far into the case as well as when it isn’t seated far enough.

Case head separation

Reusing brass cases too many times can cause problems. One of the worst of these is case head separation. When this happens, the case head separates from the rest of the case, allowing hot gases to escape into areas of the firearm not designed to contain them. This could result in damage to the firearm and serious injury to the user.

Don’t Use the Wrong Powder

sing the wrong powder while reloading is extremely dangerous. Different types of cartridges require different types of powder. For example, small pistol cartridges will use a faster burning powder, while large rifle cartridges will use a slower burning powder. If you fill a large rifle case with pistol powder, you will blow up the rifle. It will also very likely severely injure or kill you.

To make sure that I use the right powder, I never keep any powder on my reloading bench other than the one I am using. I also open my reloading manual to the page with the correct recipe and keep the powder’s canister on my bench. This prevents accidents and helps me know for certain that I am using the correct powder.

Don’t Mix Powders

While this issue isn’t as common as accidentally using the wrong powder, never mix powders. This usually happens when a reloader fails to remove all of the old powder from a powder hopper or trickler. Be sure that you remove all powder from such equipment before filling it with new powder.”

Thank you DIY Prepper for the informative article.  I’ve reloaded for years and have never had a problem.  I am very careful because I’ve heard the horror stories. 

Semper Paratus

Check 6

Burn

Stripper Clips For Reloading Magazines

 Stripper-clips are a handy way of loading your magazines. Often people without stripper-clip experience will say they are a waste of time and to just load your magazines. I do keep magazines loaded, but what happens after those rounds are shot? A stripper-clip is very handy to re load those magazines quickly. When would you ever need this type of speed? Probably never. Although, once in combat I ran out of ammo.  I was in a fighting position and could get more but that horrible feeling  was there and I vowed it would never happen again. But preparation is not about “probably”, it’s about being ready. If you are under fire, you will find that your motor skills will suffer. Grabbing a stripper-clip with 10 rounds and slamming it into a mag is much easier than loading 10 rounds individually.

Pre-loaded magazines are fine, but pre-loaded stripper-clips will ensure that your mags stay fully loaded.
Magazines are expensive and stripper-clips are cheap. In the military all your 5.56 ammo comes in boxes loaded in stripper-clips and a bandolier. In the military we threw away thousands of these stripper-clips. This is why I have a large collection of them. They also came with a “spoon” which fits on the magazine and lets you load the stripper straight into the mag.
This is how you use it:
.223/5.56 stripper-clips hold 10 rounds. For instance, if you have 100 clips that would give you 1,000 rounds. With 5, 30 round magazines that would be reloading all your magazines 6 times with some left over.
You can put 10 rounds on a stripper-clip and if you have 100 stripper clips you can have 1,000 rounds readily accessible for when you go out shooting. If you have say 5, 30-round magazines, you can reload them 6 times with some left over.
Loading a stripper-clip is easy. On each end is a little tab. Bend one tab down and start sliding the rounds into the clip. When the clip is full of 10 rounds bend the tab up so that no rounds will slip off the clip and fall out.
Now take the spoon (or speed loader/charger) and slip the loaded clip into the skinny side of the spoon. The wide end of the spoon will fit right over the edge of the magazine.
Now take your thumb and push your rounds into the magazine. Some people use a table to push the rounds into the mag but if you’re in the field you might not have a table to use so I always practice with my thumb. Use however many stripper-clips you need depending on the size of your magazine.
I had someone in a handgun class whose whole gun experience was with the M4. He had only ever loaded 5.56 in magazines with stripper clips. When I was teaching how to load a 9mm magazine he said, “Where are the stripper-clips?” He thought all magazines were loaded that way!
There are other guns that have magazines that load with stripper clips. But most magazines are just loaded the old-fashioned way one at a time by hand.
Midway has 96 items alone that have to do with speed loading magazines. So, there are other speed loader options for more than just an AR or AK.
Speed loading is available for revolvers also.
There are two main brands currently available that have withstood the test of time: Safariland and HKS. Keep in mind that both these models got their baptism by fire via rough law enforcement service. In 40 years of time, I have never seen either brand break or malfunction. I can’t say the same of pistol magazines.
The Safariland charges the cylinders in one motion, and it is nearly impossible to unintentionally release the loaded rounds. All three types of Safariland loaders—Comp I, Comp II, and Comp III—utilize a coil spring locking mechanism to hold the rounds in place. To load the Safariland loaders, place the loose rounds in the loader, then place the noses of the bullets against a flat surface and push in while twisting the center knob clockwise until the loader clicks and locks the rounds in place. In the center of the loader is a plastic star that engages the ejector star on the revolver’s cylinder. To load the revolver, hold the loader by the cylindrical portion and align the rounds in the chamber holes and ease the rounds partially in until the loader stops. Pushing further engages the plastic star release, and all rounds will fall freely into the empty cylinder. The Safariland Comp I, II, and III have progressively larger knobs that allow you to grab them easier. The Comp III’s are best reserved for competitive revolver shooting as they are very long. Comp I loaders are the only ones made for five-shot revolvers. The downside of Safariland speed loaders is that caliber selection is limited to .357 Magnum/.38 Special and .44 Magnum/.44 Special.
HKS is probably the most popular cylinder loader and has been on the market for the longest time. It is a good loader, but not as fast as a Safariland loader, since two motions are needed to charge the chambers. Live rounds are held in the HKS loader by a ball/detent locking mechanism. To load an HKS speed loader, twist the silver knob to the right until it clicks, then insert the rounds. Once they are inserted, twist the silver knob to the left until it locks. To load the revolver, hold the loader by the black cylinder of the loader—NOT the silver knob—and ease the rounds into the chambers. If you hold the loader by the knob, the insertion won’t be as positive—plus there is a chance of prematurely releasing the rounds. The rounds should seat halfway into the chambers. Turn the silver knob to the right, and the rounds will drop in the chambers.
There are two advantages that HKS loaders have over Safariland loaders. First, they are the brand I most often see available at gun stores. Second, they are available in a much wider variety of calibers and handgun models. Calibers listed are .38/357, .22 LR, .22 Magnum, .44 Magnum/.44 Special, .45 Auto Rim, .45 Colt, .41 Magnum, 9mm, and .32 Magnum. Loaders are available for five-, six-, and six-plus capacity revolvers.
Speed Strips
Bianchi was the originator of the non-mechanical rubberized speed strip. The advantage of any speed strip is its flat profile, which allows a bulge free fit in a pants pocket. The downside is that only a maximum of two rounds can be loaded simultaneously. Bianchi’s speed strips are only available in six-shot configurations in .38/357 and .44 Special/.45 Colt calibers. If you have a five-shot revolver, you should download to only five rounds in the strip to avoid confusion during a reload.
TUFF Products Quick Strips are different. TUFF Products has embraced the speed strip concept, going way beyond what Bianchi envisioned. In fact, there are so many choices available, in five, six and more round count configurations, including 40mm grenade and 12-gauge shotgun strips, that they can’t be listed here.
To load a revolver cylinder with a Quick Strip, simply insert one or two cartridges in the chambers, and pull the loader up against the cartridges. The rounds will clear the rubber strip and slide into the chamber.
Ever see Jerry Miculek shoot? He reloads with what is called a moon clip. This is fast but the gun must be modified to use one. A speed loader can be used on all guns. Most revolver speed shooters use a moon clip. I think a regular speed loader is fine for my applications. If I was into quick draw or revolver shooting, I’d probably use a moon clip.
Speed loading is something that is handy to look into. It’s generally not expensive and it can really enhance your reloading in a time of need. Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn

Saving Money at the Range

We live in difficult times. The economy of this country has created problems in many family’s budgets. My wife is very frugal and has found many ways to save money. This has taught me to stretch a dollar and has me thinking about the many ways I save money at the shooting range. The gun industry is flourishing in the United States. But because of that, products abound. There are many different targets out there to fill the market. Targets to please everyone from paper to ¾ inch AR500 Steel. In my training program I’ve found paper works very well and is economical. To save money, I use paper plates. I shoot at a popular outdoor range that has many members. Because of this I have seen many “Splatter” type targets used. The Splatterburst brand targets are very popular. I notice that many people that shoot these targets don’t use the black and red dots that are provided to cover the holes to continued using the target. So I’ve pulled the targets from the trash and cut off the dots. That way, I have something to put on my paper plates to use as a bulls eye or point of focus. I’ve amassed a big zip loc full of these dots. I also cut off the unused 4 inch targets that are often unused on the Splatterburst target. Also in the area of backing for targets I just keep an eye out for large cardboard boxes and cut them up. I also make my own silhouettes with cardboard or paper. You can also make your own target stands if the place you shoot does not have stands available. This can be done economically too. The internet is full of ideas from expensive to very economical. I also don’t buy range bags. In just a cursory search of the internet you can find range bags from $65 to over $300! I bought a Protégé duffel style bag from Wal-Mart for $15. Now it is just a bag. It doesn’t have special slots for hand guns and magazines. But my bag serves my purpose and has lasted me several years. If worse comes to worse, I’ll buy a new bag every 5 years and still save money. When you look for a bag make sure it will carry heavy loads because 100’s of rounds, several magazines, and a couple handguns are heavy! What I’ve noticed is many people only shoot 3 or 4 times a year. I have no problem with that. That is called recreational shooting. But for those that train, or would like to train, ammo and its cost and availability can be an issue. I have been buying ammunition since the 80’s so I have come up with a storage program for ammo just as my family has a preparedness and food storage program. Like canned food, ammo is first in, last out. That requires dating ammo so you know when it went into storage. I also keep track of it all on my computer. What I suggest is if you train to limit your shooting to a certain number of rounds. I have limited myself to 50 rounds a workout. That is altered once in a while but generally its kept to 50. Depending on your training program, you should limit yourself. The reason for the limit is I could go through 300 rounds easy. I love to shoot and it is therapeutic for me. But I go to the range 2 or sometimes 3 times a week. That would add up fast and be quite expensive. Now if you are training for competition that is a different story. You would have a budget and possibly a sponsor. That would not limit your ammo use. But most people train once or twice a month. You shouldn’t skimp on your gun. But many people can’t afford a Glock or a Kimber. These are great, reliable, guns. But Ruger, Smith and Wesson, Kel-Tec, and other makers have more budget conscious guns available. I know some of you purists out there are stuck on a particular brand but not everyone can afford a H&K. Buy a gun you are comfortable with and that you can afford. Like Golf, you can invest quite a lot of time and money into shooting. Invest what is necessary and what you can afford. I am a gun nut. It is my hobby, my defense, and my passion. At one time I competed. That didn’t last because of my obsession with defense but it was fun. Shooting can be expensive but the cost can be mitigated in many ways. Ammo can be reloaded but that requires equipment, components, and room to do it. I’ve reloaded for years but started when I was competing. I acquired the equipment over many years. I even have cast my own bullets, which requires another set of equipment. I probably could save money reloading now because I have the equipment. If you shoot large caliber rifles then reloading might be a money saving option. These are just some ways I have used to save money at the range. Shooting can be a very rewarding venture and if you own guns for defense it is critical. There are many accessories for shooting but also many ideas for fulfilling your needs without breaking the bank! Semper Paratus Check 6 Burn

Magazine Storage: Loaded? or Unloaded?

Storing magazines full or empty. My opinion, regarding your question, comes from my direct experience in the military, as a competitive shooter and as an industry professional. When using quality magazines with quality ammunition, stored and maintained properly, you can leave them loaded as long as you want to without any reservation. GEORGE HARRIS, August 12, 2019, “Shooting Illustrated” De-formed followers, bad ammunition, problematic firearms, and user error are more often to blame for frequent malfunctions than worn magazine springs. Chris Baker, editor of Lucky Gunner Lounge, June 02, 2014 I’ve shot guns with magazines for over 4 decades. I have a lot of experience with good and bad magazines. I have considerably less experience with wheel guns. But I actually taught revolver shooting in the military in the days of yore. I have had a few magazine failures but not very many. When I competed I was paranoid about magazines. If a magazine was ever in question, it was replaced. I did not store my competition magazines with ammo in them for fear of that being a factor. I have changed. I store self-defense magazines full of ammo all the time. I’ve talked to manufacturers, I’ve talked to engineers, and I’ve talked to many other instructors, and the conclusion I have come to is, I’ll store ammo in magazines, but I will probably rotate the ammo and the magazines on a fairly regular basis. In his article in Shooting Illustrated, George Harris said: "I thought it fitting to contact some of my friends in the industry, both from an engineering and customer-service perspective. As I suspected, the answers I received were as varied as the number of people to whom I talked. I called four different people in four different departments at one of the major manufacturers with whom I have a close relationship and received four different answers. They ranged from the magazine could remain loaded indefinitely and still function fine when and if the time came to use them, to a long, complicated regimen of exercising the spring by partially downloading the magazine periodically to different levels so the spring wouldn’t take a set to a specific position because of the number of rounds loaded in the magazine.” I’ve heard similar answers to the above so I adopted my own regime of storing magazines loaded, but rotating the ammunition at least annually, but just as often as not, 3 to 6 months. Some magazines are not used very often so that annual thing has not happened. I know I have some .25 caliber magazines that have not been changed out in a while. Probably a few years. I’ve started to put a post-it note with each magazine stored with a date it was put into storage to get a better idea of how long it has been. Some guns are not shot often and this simple note will at least tell me how old the ammo is. I’m not here to answer the question, “Should I store magazines loaded or not?” I’m here to shed light on the reality of storing and keeping guns functioning and keeping sanity. I’m probably the pickiest about my carry guns and other self-defense guns, but in my experience and for me, I store magazines loaded mostly. Depends on the gun. I have many AR15 magazines and all of them are not full all the time. But I have some guns that have only 4 magazines and I store those full. Unless it is an odd caliber that I don’t shoot much. So you see, the answer to this question is not really a definitive “loaded” or “unloaded”. The only time I’ve wanted all magazines always full was in combat. Otherwise, it’s a case by case basis. I’m glad to have cleared that up…. Semper Paratus Check 6 Burn

Ammo Scammers

This article is about ammo scammer websites. But know this could be other gun related products. There are many new gun owners out there.

With the shortage of ammo being a real thing many fake ammunition websites have popped up. I was going along a few months ago looking for primers when I found a site that had lots of primers in stock. The flag was that they had a LOT! The prices were also pretty low. There was no limit on anything they were trying to sell. This started me looking around the website. The pictures that were being used seemed awfully “general”. It seemed like pictures from a photo library. Very nondescript. Then I looked for an address. I couldn’t find one. There was only a email address. Then I started to get further into the site. There were other places on this website that promised training information. They acted as if this business was a gun training business that sold ammo and reloading products. It was pretty elaborate until you started clicking some of these side links. These areas were not yet developed. The content was not there. It wasn’t just under construction. So I filled out the personal information area telling them to bite me! These scammers are almost always outside the United States. Most of the content has been stolen. Of course the business names are fake and so are the logos. If you have never heard of this site or business make sure to read the content. Many of these scammers do not use English as their first language. You can tell in their content. Here are some tips for recognizing fake websites. Too good of a deal If it’s too good to be true it probably is. Prices are often very cheap. You know what these products are going for. Look at the prices from websites you know are reputable to get an idea what prices should be. Social media Look to see if they have any social media links. Then follow those links. It takes a lot of time and work to maintain websites and social media accounts. Scammers won’t put in the time and work. Payment Just like the phone scammers payment is often from some crazy third-party or social media platforms. Most will not take credit cards. Contact Often scammers will want to communicate with you on another platform. They will direct message you and want to communicate with a chat app. Addresses Check their business address. It’s pretty easy to check. Many won’t have any address at all. English as their first language Bad grammar and crazy misspelled words and obvious typos are all indicators of a scammer. Security indicators SSL (this stands for computer-speak “Secure sockets layer”) certificates are what enable websites to move from HTTP to HTTPS, which is more secure. An SSL certificate is a data file hosted in a website's server. SSL certificates make encryption possible, and they contain the website's identity. Tap the lock at the beginning of URL address to see if your connection is secure. But be aware that some scammer sites actually have SSL certificates. Forums Look at some forums and see if you can find the business you are considering being discussed. You can also look for reviews of the business on the site or in forums. Forums are known to be brutally honest. Doubt If you have doubts do not buy! Trust In the end use trusted businesses and websites. Be careful out there brothers and sisters! Semper Paratus Check 6 Burn

Finding Ammo

I am always behind the curve. If there is one drawback to being prepared it’s that you don’t notice shortages until it’s too late! I hadn’t bought ammo in a while because one: I buy in bulk when I do buy, and two, I don’t buy very often because I have ammo storage. Just like food storage with ammo you can shop sales and good deals when you have enough. But that’s how I missed the run on guns and ammo. I also live outside a small town and am limited to where I can buy ammo locally. So I didn’t see it coming. The reason of course is many fold. It’s an election year and some are afraid the Dems will take over and start banning things. Then there is the COVID-19 so more people are home and are thinking about home security. Then to top it off there has been civil unrest and that drives up the insecurity even more. Guns sales are way up and it’s estimated that 40% of guns sales are new gun owners. That means there’s probably no existing ammo in these new gun owner’s homes, so they need to buy some. Then also with empty shelves comes some panic, or just “I’ll pick up a box because I may not be able to later” which of course is self-fulfilling prophecy. Another factor driving increased demand, and higher prices as well are the huge numbers of new gun owners entering the market. With sales at over 8 million guns and going strong, that's a lot of new owners buying guns. They're also buying ammo, but unlike people who have been doing this for a while, they have no idea what ammo is “supposed” to cost. To someone who moved to Texas from LA and now they want a gun, paying $25.99 for a box of 9mm seems reasonable, because that's just what it costs at the moment. There are ways to find ammo though. My local gun store has a waiting list. As soon as they get a shipment in, they call, reserve 100 rounds, and then I pick it up. It’s more than what I paid at Walmart, but Walmart doesn’t carry handgun ammo anymore. I don’t mind a slight rise in prices. I realize that is supply and demand. But I’ve noticed some places on line that are significantly higher. I’m not sure that will change even if supply goes up. I read an article from a guy in the Houston, Texas area who drove 30 something miles to 4 or 5 locations and he was able to pick up ammo of different calibers that he was looking for. He said it took some time, and the prices were a little higher, but it was livable. I would suggest doing this by phone and asking the store to put aside their limit of what they will sell you. Then I would suggest going right to that store. Some stores may not reserve it for you so you must be prompt. Here are many ammunition search engines to help you in your online search. I’ve always used gunbot.net. I’ve noticed sometimes the search engine will say it is in stock, but you go to the businesses website and it is out of stock. Some websites will notify you if they get that particular item back in stock. Again, don’t hesitate when notified. Order it as fast as possible. Be ready for higher prices. The prices I have seen lately are about double the regular prices. I hope that can change as the supply returns to normal. I would also fasten your seat belts, it’s going to be a long, bumpy ride back to normal. https://ammoseek.com/ammo/ https://www.ammobuy.com/ https://www.bulkcheapammo.com/public/ http://www.gunbot.net/ http://ammoexpress.com/ I hope these will be able to help you in your search. Good luck! Semper Paratus Check 6 Burn

The Ammo Shortage of 2008 and Gunbot.net

2008 Brought many crazy things. The stock market collapsed and politics was fully engaged. Barack Obama was just elected and that scared the heck out of every supporter of the second amendment! I think that’s probably how it started. President Obama had made some noise in his campaign about gun control and many believed stricter laws were imminent. So many started to buy up all the ammo they could find creating a “run” on ammunition throughout the country. This also happened somewhat in 2012 after the Sandy Hook shootings. When this “crisis” started I decided on buying reloading components instead of ammo. That proved to be a bonus for me because the shortage had not hit primers yet, although it eventually did. It didn’t affect me a lot because I’ve always had an inventory of ammunition. What worried me some was that I would start to deplete that inventory and not be able to replace it. It turned out that I didn’t have to worry and things bounced back. During this time of uneasiness I found a great place to search for ammo. Gunbot.net
This site is great for finding what you need in the area of ammunition, reloading components, and magazines. I like the no nonsense way this site is set up and that they tell you when something is out of stock or not. It also will show you the total price of ammunition but also the price per round. You can set your “good deal” threshold which means you can pick a price per round that you’re looking for and the site will let you know in red letters or a “beep alert” that you can set. I found this site easy to use and simple (like my brain). Now, I know that there are other similar sites out there but this was the first one I came across and it helped in my time of “need”. There is even a list of retailers that they follow on this site that is ever growing.
I am grateful even in these times of plenty that gunbot.com is out there. It’s easy to find what I need fast. Check it out
Gunbot.net
Semper Paratus
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What Stops A Bullet And What Doesn't

I was showing my wife some pictures of targets I had taken on last week’s trip to the range. She noticed that there was a hole in the plywood that was the backing for the target. She asked if the bullet always went through the wood. I told her it would have to be several inches thick before it would stop a bullet. She seemed surprised. Even though she has been with me to the range often, and has been shooting for years she doesn’t have enough interest to really learn about ballistics or how bullets act. All she is usually concerned about is the holes in her target. I don’t fault her for this because she is not really into guns and shooting. She goes to the range with me to do things with me. Just like I will help her in the kitchen even though I don’t know the difference between folding in ingredients or mixing them into a recipe. She is a chef and a pro baker and I am not. But we like to be with each other so we do things together. She had never really paid attention to the bullets going through the steel or the ¾ inch plywood like it wasn’t there. She then starting asking about what would stop a bullet. She started to list things in our house.

A wall? No not a standard interior or exterior wall.

A couch or bed? No.

A refrigerator? No, depending on how much is in it and whether it is frozen or not.

A metal or wood front door? No, depending on the thickness

“Well what WOULD stop a bullet in our house?” Not very much I’m afraid. Brick or stone walls would. A stone fireplace or maybe a cast iron wood stove. I’ve never really tested a woodstove.
A book shelf from the side. In other words, a stack of books about 8 to 10 inches thick. I use a stack of paperback books taped together about 11 inches thick when I dry fire.
If you have a ballistic vest then you could use that. Or maybe a plate panel that goes into a plate carrier.

Practice pads that are specific for dry fire are a good portable alternative. Make sure it is rated for the caliber you will use.
A 5 gallon bucket of sand will stop a bullet.
A vehicles engine block or axle will stop a bullet, but not a vehicle door. The only vehicle I have seen stop a bullet is the door of an armored vehicle like some military Hum Vees.
A large tree will stop a bullet.

The five-gallon bucket of sand could be disguised inside a decorative basket, with a fake houseplant such as a ficus tree plunked inside the sand bucket. Such a contraption is a handy place to point your firearm when you must load, unload, or disassemble it (especially in the case of Glocks and other designs which require you to pull the trigger during the disassembly process).

I was reading a blog, Concealed Carry.com. The article is titled “16 Things That Will Stop a Bullet and 28 Things That Won’t”
The article showed video evidence of the things that would and would not stop bullets. It is very important to know what actually will stop a bullet.
There are several ways to explain this. I will attempt to do so.
There are several factors we need to consider. The caliber of bullet, the velocity of the bullet, and the thickness of the thing you’re trying to use as cover. We’ll talk about these things.
Caliber is the size of the bullet. Most of the time when you have a higher caliber you will have more power behind it. But not necessarily.
An example. The .25 caliber bullet only has a velocity of 760 feet per second while the .22 Stinger has a velocity of 1,640 feet per second. The .22 has more power behind it so it goes faster than the heavier .25.
Velocity is everything. If you compare a .22 Long rifle cartridge and a 30-06 cartridge the difference in size is obvious. The 30-06 is bigger around (.30 caliber) compared to the .22 caliber. But the case size differences are really where the large difference is. The 30-06 has much more power behind it so it travels at a higher velocity. That velocity gives it better punching power. Velocity is also affected by the weapons barrel length. The charge that the cartridge is loaded with has an impact on the velocity too. The charge continues to burn in a longer barrel so this increases the bullet speed. This can act in an opposite effect if the barrel is too long.
So why are we talking about all this physics? Because this is what plays a role in whether you can hide behind something and be protected or not.
There was a young guy who wanted to be a You Tube star in 2009. He kept bugging his girlfriend to film her shooting him with a .50 caliber handgun with a book in front of his chest as a shield. He is now dead and she is in jail for accidentally killing him. They did not understand what was considered cover, (stop a bullet) and what is concealment, (something to hide behind.) It is vital that you know this too. Ever see a movie and see a shooter in a restaurant having a gunfight? People are hiding behind walls, appliances, and tables. None of these things may stop a bullet. Maybe the wall if it is brick or concrete. I’ve seen countless T.V. shows where law enforcement stops their patrol car, get out, and kneel in back of their vehicle door pointing their gun. This would be a fatal mistake. But that is what has taught us how to protect ourselves. This is a horrible lesson. First of all, I’m not sure we should take our life-and-death advice from fictional characters. Learning the truth about what is cover is very important. I have shot through 2 X 4 and ¾ inch plywood lumber. Almost any caliber unless it is quite a distance away would go through this type lumber. Maybe a 4 x 4 or a 4 x 6 inch piece of lumber would stop some bullets but not all and not at all distances. A concrete wall full of rebar and concrete will stop most bullets.
In my experience, 8 inches of bound paper will stop a 9mm bullet at point blank range. I’ve tested that and use 10 inches of bound paperback books as a bullet stop for dryfire drills. Sand is a pretty good bullet stopper. A sandbag is about 4 inches thick. Sandbags saved my life many times over. They lined the walls of our fighting positions with about 8 rows of sandbags!
Water and glass can be shot through but the course of the bullet is usually altered along with its strength depending on the thickness of the glass and depth of water.

Basically, knowing the difference between cover and concealment may save your life. Just know that most things don’t stop a bullet but it’s difficult to hit a target that can’t be seen. So concealment is important too.
It’s always better to not get in a fight. But if you must be in a firefight, know the difference between cover, and concealment.

Semper Paratus
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Being Organized In Ammo Storage

I am a gun guy. I have used guns for many things in my life. To defend myself and others, to teach discipline to others, to discipline myself, and to just manage stress or have fun. So in the process of doing these things, I have found the need to store set amounts of ammunition. As of today, I know how much ammo I will go through in a month. So, I keep an amount of ammo stored that will fill that need. I also feel the need for being prepared in this area of ammunition. So I have established an amount that I want to keep in storage and have on hand always. We do the same thing with our food storage. We maintain certain amounts that would feed our family for a specified amount of time. We must rotate that food to not waste, to maintain nutrition or quality, and to prevent spoilage. I approach my ammo storage in the same way. Organization really does matter. This takes some preparation and discipline. Like food, ammo can have a shelf life. If not stored properly it can go bad like food. If not organized you can find yourself wasting or storing more of one thing than you really want.
Labeling is a very important step. Identifying what is in an ammo can without opening it is essential. This will save you time and preserve your ammo longer. Ammunition has a long shelf life if stored properly. If you need a particular caliber of ammo, labeling will keep you from opening several cans to find what you’re looking for. Get a good labeler. This is good for many things beside your ammo storage.
If you use desiccants in your ammo storage create a desiccant check schedule. Every 6 months (my schedule, maybe not yours) I open certain cans and check the desiccant. I do half of my storage every 6 months so the entire stock gets checked annually. Your schedule may vary depending on how and where you store your ammo. Ammo storage is another article. I’m just focusing on organization. All of these checks can be put into reminder form electronically. You can use a written calendar or whatever will work for you. My phone is what I use.
One of the main reasons I maintain an ammo inventory is insulation from cost fluctuations.
The 2008–13 United States ammunition shortage refers to a shortage of civilian small arms ammunition in the United States that started in late 2008 and continued through 2010. There was an additional shortage in December 2012 that went through most of 2013. The 2008 election of President Obama increased both firearms and ammunition sales. Rationing followed during the shortage. During 2012 a mass shooting at a school in Newtown, Connecticut, a frenzy over gun control laws also set off a shortage. .22 Long Rifle seemed to be the most difficult to find. This eased up in 2013 and the availability went back to where it was before although ammo prices increased and did not decrease with the increase in availability. During this time I never had a problem with my weekly shooting because I had stores of ammo. I did try to replenish what I was using and so I too was looking for almost anything available like everyone else. I just didn’t feel panicked like some others did.

Keeping all this inventory on my computer is much easier than a written log. There are several apps for your phone or device that will help you to keep an account of what ammo you use and have on hand. I’ve used some of them but I always come back to just a Word document. On this document I have:
The location of the ammo. Some ammunition are in hidden locations.
I have long term and short term storage.
Quantity, what kind of can it is in, caliber, whether it is in a bag, box, or loose.
I have the totals for each caliber
I also have my goals for amounts I want to store for each caliber

Having a plan for ammo storage is an important part of your defense plan. Be realistic about what you would like to store and store safely and in an organized manner. You’ll be more prepared if a shortage should ever arise and not panic because you are caught without any ammunition when it is needed.

Semper Paratus
Check 6
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