Fire Plan
One of the most important (they’re ALL important!) things you can do is to have a family fire plan. How to get out of your house on fire. Who is responsible for what? Here are some thoughts to get you going on your own plan.
Think about how you will escape from every room, starting with bedrooms
If possible, plan two escape routes from each room.
Your second route may be to go out a window, or stand at a window where firefighters can see you.
Decide where you will meet outside
Plan everyone’s role. Who will make sure children get out?
Plan for special needs. Do you have:
Young children?
Older adults?
People with temporary or permanent disabilities?
Do you ever have overnight guests?
Share your plan with babysitters and frequent visitors.
Keep your floors, hallways and stairs clear of clutter.
Fire extinguishers require planning too.
Practice your home fire drill.
Plan It
You can come up with a plan over dinner. Ask your spouse or oldest kid where they think the family should meet outside if you ever have to run out. A tree? Mailbox? Neighbor's porch? Pick a designated meeting spot. Then talk, in front of the kids, about the best doors (plural) to leave from. Maybe out the front door is best, but tell them that if it doesn't look safe, try the back door or garage door next. Ideally you should have two ways to escape from every room of your home. Are you the kind of mom who likes to draw things out? Draw out a worksheet to use while you discuss the best routes.
Practice It
It's important to actually practice a household fire drill to make sure you can all get out in 120 seconds flat. Hit the test on the smoke alarm so kids hear how it sounds. (Scary and awful, but there you go.) Show kids how to crawl low if there's smoke, and have them practice unlatching a door and going out. Visit the designated meeting spot, together. Remind kids that firemen may look crazy with all their gear on but that they are helpers.
Prepare for It
Remember "stop, drop, and roll" from your childhood? It's still fun to practice and important for every family member to know in case clothes accidentally catch fire. If you have a baby, they're exempt from these drills, of course. But you and your spouse should discuss who is in charge of grabbing the baby in the event that there's a fire and you're both home.
Practice, in most things, keeps you current and realistic in what you are preparing for. I would suggest a fire drill every 6 months. I would also suggest fire extinguisher training annually. Being safe from fire is something everyone can get behind.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn
Wednesday, June 6, 2018
Wednesday, May 30, 2018
Memorial Day Is Not Good For Everyone
Memorial Day was not very good for me this year. For many people it’s a day off from work or school and I understand that. Until fighting for freedom touches your life directly, it’s hard to understand and remember the sacrifice made. I got an e-mail from a friend of mine. We served together even though we were only brought together by circumstance and training. We fought next to each other and I feel I can trust him with my life, because I have trusted him with my life. He told me about his Memorial Day.
It was not very good. He had a couple phone calls and e-mails that just brought so many hard memories of long lost friends. I work on a DOD base and in my e-mail I received a “Happy Memorial Day” greeting from some higher ranking member who talked about remembering freedom is not free, and other things. I understood what the message was for. But to wish someone a Happy Memorial Day is like seeing someone on the day of their Mother’s funeral and saying “Happy Funeral Day!” My friend was a little bitter about having this day to remember. For most people it is a day to remember those who have paid the ultimate sacrifice. For others it’s a time that dredges up memories that are often buried. I don’t want you to think I’m the crazy vet with the 1000 yard stare. Most of the time I’m a pretty fun guy to be around. I think I’ve replaced some pain with humor as a defense mechanism. My experience was deadly but fairly short in comparison to some military members who go through several tours and deployments. So my 1000 yard stare is more like 2 yards. (see what I said about humor?) But many of my friends have had years of horror and boredom. (Definition of warfare has been said as “Months of boredom punctuated by moments of extreme terror.") So, as their brief brother in arms, I have an understanding of some of their feelings and thoughts. My experience was shots fired in anger. And returning fire. I lost a friend because of about 12 inches. A different trajectory and someone else is writing this. I did first aid on him hoping to heaven his wife and kids would not have to endure those memories on Memorial Day.
But I have good memories also of those I served with. I’m grateful for their friendship and their brotherhood. It’s amazing to me to see how people react and act in a difficult situation. Some of the ones you thought would do well cower in the corner and others step up when you thought they would run.
Memorial Day needs to be a solemn remembrance of the brave Americans who have laid down their lives for the freedom we cherish. Frankly, the mere act of putting on the uniform isn’t heroic. As Americans, we have begun to overuse the word ‘hero‘. I stand by my claim that the real heroes are the men and women who don t come home. Memorial Day is for them.
Actually Memorial Day can be a day celebrating the freedom that many have died to protect. If celebrating our freedom, just remember that for some who were there, the memories are not that sweet.
Here’s a copy of the e-mail I replied to concerning the above “Happy Memorial Day” message:
Ma'am,
I just wanted to comment on your "Happy Memorial Day" wishes. Please take this with all the respect I can give to you for your service and the important job you do. I do not want this to seem a disrespectful or angry comment. It is one I've thought about for the last few days and considered not even sending.
I understand that you were giving your troops thanks and wishing them a good holiday. I think that is needed and great! But please remember that for some Memorial Day is not very happy. I had a message from a good friend of mine where he was struggling with the memory we share of an experience where we lost some friends. He was lamenting on why we have to have a day to remember when we're trying to forget. I know he knows the reason for this day and he would agree it is better to have the day than to forget, for most people. Let's try and remember those who survived the defense of this country and what they live with. Memorial Day is more than time off. I'm also one who hates political correctness. If there was one thing I learned in the military, it was that being clear and concise sometimes ruffles feathers. But I also feel we should be as kind as we can.
Again Ma'am I thank you for your service. Sometimes being in the military feels like just a job, but it is always in defense of all we hold dear.
Thank you,
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn
It was not very good. He had a couple phone calls and e-mails that just brought so many hard memories of long lost friends. I work on a DOD base and in my e-mail I received a “Happy Memorial Day” greeting from some higher ranking member who talked about remembering freedom is not free, and other things. I understood what the message was for. But to wish someone a Happy Memorial Day is like seeing someone on the day of their Mother’s funeral and saying “Happy Funeral Day!” My friend was a little bitter about having this day to remember. For most people it is a day to remember those who have paid the ultimate sacrifice. For others it’s a time that dredges up memories that are often buried. I don’t want you to think I’m the crazy vet with the 1000 yard stare. Most of the time I’m a pretty fun guy to be around. I think I’ve replaced some pain with humor as a defense mechanism. My experience was deadly but fairly short in comparison to some military members who go through several tours and deployments. So my 1000 yard stare is more like 2 yards. (see what I said about humor?) But many of my friends have had years of horror and boredom. (Definition of warfare has been said as “Months of boredom punctuated by moments of extreme terror.") So, as their brief brother in arms, I have an understanding of some of their feelings and thoughts. My experience was shots fired in anger. And returning fire. I lost a friend because of about 12 inches. A different trajectory and someone else is writing this. I did first aid on him hoping to heaven his wife and kids would not have to endure those memories on Memorial Day.
But I have good memories also of those I served with. I’m grateful for their friendship and their brotherhood. It’s amazing to me to see how people react and act in a difficult situation. Some of the ones you thought would do well cower in the corner and others step up when you thought they would run.
Memorial Day needs to be a solemn remembrance of the brave Americans who have laid down their lives for the freedom we cherish. Frankly, the mere act of putting on the uniform isn’t heroic. As Americans, we have begun to overuse the word ‘hero‘. I stand by my claim that the real heroes are the men and women who don t come home. Memorial Day is for them.
Actually Memorial Day can be a day celebrating the freedom that many have died to protect. If celebrating our freedom, just remember that for some who were there, the memories are not that sweet.
Here’s a copy of the e-mail I replied to concerning the above “Happy Memorial Day” message:
Ma'am,
I just wanted to comment on your "Happy Memorial Day" wishes. Please take this with all the respect I can give to you for your service and the important job you do. I do not want this to seem a disrespectful or angry comment. It is one I've thought about for the last few days and considered not even sending.
I understand that you were giving your troops thanks and wishing them a good holiday. I think that is needed and great! But please remember that for some Memorial Day is not very happy. I had a message from a good friend of mine where he was struggling with the memory we share of an experience where we lost some friends. He was lamenting on why we have to have a day to remember when we're trying to forget. I know he knows the reason for this day and he would agree it is better to have the day than to forget, for most people. Let's try and remember those who survived the defense of this country and what they live with. Memorial Day is more than time off. I'm also one who hates political correctness. If there was one thing I learned in the military, it was that being clear and concise sometimes ruffles feathers. But I also feel we should be as kind as we can.
Again Ma'am I thank you for your service. Sometimes being in the military feels like just a job, but it is always in defense of all we hold dear.
Thank you,
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn
Tuesday, May 22, 2018
Do We Want Our Schools Secure, Or Not?
We’ve had another shooting in a school. 8 high school kids and 2 teachers were killed before the kid gave up. He had planned on shooting himself but he said he couldn’t do it. The same comments from the kids that witnessed these horrible acts and lived through it. “I never thought this could happen here.”
Well, do we want our kids secure in schools or not? My answer to that is we do not. Columbine was the wake-up call. That was in 1999. Almost 20 years later I’m hearing the same crap from the liberals: “It’s the NRA’s fault.” Or the same crap from the right: “It costs too much money.” What it comes down to it, it’s OUR fault. After 20 years we can’t hardly get past the thought that our kids are not safe. We put little Band-Aids on the problem or lay blame and it continues.
Let me make a prediction here and you see if it plays out. Unless we get serious, and I mean serious, about securing our schools, this will continue. I know it can’t be completely eliminated. Someone will figure out a way around any security measure you can come up with. But what is being done is not enough. I know that many worry about making our schools “prisons”. I will ask it again, Do you want to secure our schools or not?
I’ve heard many whine about arming teachers. I guess they think that’s going too far. That is too much for the safety of our kids. Again I ask, Do you want to secure our schools or not? I would think that any price, any discomfort, any hassle, any perception of how it looks, is a price that we would be willing to pay. Why can’t these measures be universal in all schools?
Some may say I’m being unrealistic. OK, if I am then what is the reality? Not enough funds? Find a way to cut administration costs, put in the security we need AND give teachers a raise. Would you and I pay more taxes for the security of our kids? Where do I sign? I have a large bunch of kids and we did not avail ourselves to the public or private school system. We homeschooled them all. But my taxes didn’t go down. I’d be willing to pay more.
This is a description of Israeli schools.
“The Israeli schools aren’t bunkers. Really, they aren’t. However, each one of these schools does has subsurface shelters. Not only this, but schools and kindergartens all over the country are regularly practicing the evacuation of students in different scenarios. This includes earthquakes, rocket attacks, unknown threats or even CBRN in some rare occasions. Keep in mind that these drills get students to take initiative, rather than just having them run to safety.
Currently, most Israeli school premises are completely fenced in and usually with only one gate. In the cases of bigger schools, there might be a few additional gates. In addition, there are two to three emergency gates which are locked (and look like normal fences) during regular, non-emergency hours. School parking lots are often located a bit further away from the school structures.
As for the gates: each gate is accompanied by a small guard cabin and an armed guard. He or she meets a certain standard to carry and do their job. The static guard is funded and under the responsibility of the Israeli police (though they are a sub-contractor and not a cop). The guard is mostly to be the first responder, but also logs traffic, maintains situational awareness and conducts hourly patrols along the school fences. In my experience as a kid, the presence of such a figure was not only practical, but also a psychological boost as us kids felt safer. That was also the first time I learned how a Glock works, but that was not really any part of the school educational program.
According to the official standard of the government, the guard will:
• Ensure that the premises is locked and under control in all time.
• Sweep and search any person who comes in.
• Have security authority.
• Ensure that foreign individuals are fully ID’d and their personal details are logged. Foreign vehicles must be documented as well.
• Assist the school occupants.
• Be aware on anything within the immediate environment of the school.”
These are just a few things that can be done. Cameras are a good idea. There are many other ideas out that some schools are doing.
As I’ve mentioned in the last article about the last mass school murder, as parents, make sure your children have some training. Don’t wait for the school. There are many videos out there about dealing with an active shooter event. You don’t have to scare them, but kids are better equipped than we think to handle this reality. Teach them situational awareness and to know where they are and what is going on around them. Do students, teachers, and staff know what real gunshots sound like in their school? What is so hard about that training? The same old crap is being said after a shooting, “I thought it was a car backfire or something else.” My kids know what gunshots sound like with and without hearing protection, indoors and outdoors. Some of my kids can tell you what different calibers sound like. My son can tell the difference between an AK and AR sound. Can you? Would that not be advantageous?
We need to stop worrying about a “safe space” and train our kids what to do and where to go. Their feelings matter little when their friends are being massacred. STOP coddling our kids!! Be serious about making them safe. Talk to security professionals. Make serious plans. School security needs to be over-done. Parents and students should demand this! It should not have any political over or under tones. High school kids for gun control is nothing more than political crap! The kids involved are pawns for adults who can’t figure out how to get elected. If the kids that are so ungraciously “demanding” change really cared, they would be asking for secure schools instead of gun control. Sarcastically speaking, I’m particularly impressed with how logical and well-spoken these kids are.
As adults we need to stop waffling and step up to the plate. Do you want to secure our schools or not?
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn
Friday, May 18, 2018
Choosing Your Home Defense Handgun
I just got a text today. It said, “What kind of hand gun do you feel is best for home defense?” Pardon the gun pun, but that’s a “loaded” question.
I assume the person was set on a hand gun rather than a long gun so I’ll only address hand guns. Long guns and shot guns are used in home defense but they are a whole other article.
The best way to pick a gun is to shoot it. Which means you may have to test drive several. I would recommend an auto loader action only because of round count. Revolvers are extremely reliable and if you become very good you can reload with moon clips or ammo strips. I am not, but I do like revolvers for other things. I even carried an S&W Airweight once.
My suggestion for choosing a home defense gun is to start practically. Obviously the gun is for home defense but will it also be used as a carry gun? If so, what size gun are you willing to carry? Consider the gun size. Full size, compact, sub-compact. Each of these have their good and bad points. If you carry then maybe a compact or sub-compact would double as a home defense weapon.
After purpose and action I would choose caliber. This will determine size somewhat. There are many opinions about this question. You’ll hear words like “stopping power” and “recoil”. I seem to be more practical about this. I want quantity. I draw the line with caliber at 9mm. I don’t want something of less caliber. I know that shot placement changes everything. If I can shoot an attacker between the eyes it doesn’t really matter what caliber I use. But I also think that under stress and fear I may not function the same as shooting a paper target at the range. In fact I know my accuracy is affected. I like the ballistics of 9mm. .45 ACP is fine but I don’t like the size, weight, cost, and round count in comparison. So that is my recommendation. But if you have small hands, or can’t control the kick, then maybe something smaller is for you. There is the popular .380 or .25 or even .22 caliber. Any gun is better than no gun in my opinion. Be careful about rounds that will through the attacker and the wall behind them. This is another reason why I don’t want to go higher than a 9mm. But any caliber will go through walls and doors in spite of what the movies show you. Reality is that there is very little in an average home that a bullet will not penetrate. Not a coach, a refrigerator, a bed, or a wall is cover. Rifle rounds are even more powerful.
After caliber I would consider round count. There auto load single or double stack magazines. Double stacks are a bulkier, wider gun. But I love it! I like having the option of 13 rounds in the gun. I do own single stacks and their round count is 8. So there’s my difference. Some people have a problem shooting sub-compacts because they are too small. I’ve learned to compensate but they take getting used to.
Next is reliability and price. I know that you can’t put a price on security. I’m cheap so I can. That’s why I put reliability with price. There are many good, quality, hand guns on the market. I have even shot well with a Hi-Point. I found that shooting accurately has more to do with the shooter than the gun. But reliability is a real consideration. I know I will get flak for this but I don’t want a Glock. Many people swear by them and rightly so. They are extremely reliable. I’ve owned them and sold them. I don’t hate on them but I can’t abide the price! There are many other guns out there that will serve me without breaking my budget. I like Smith and Wesson, Ruger, Taurus, and even Kel-Tec. I don’t have to have a Kimber, nice though they are. That is just me, you have to decide.
Purpose
Size
Action
Caliber
Reliability
Price
Storage ability
Remember an important rule if you planning to have a gun for home defense and concealed carry. It has to be comfortable and not a hassle. If it is a big burden you will leave it at home more than you carry it.
Also remember that defending yourself in confined spaces is difficult at best. Add to that stress darkness and then being sure where your rounds end up (it says on a .22 box that they can go a mile!), you need to have some training. Get to know your gun. Practice often and continue training.
In professional circles defending in a small space is called CQB or close quarters battle. It is not real easy but it is quite possible to learn. But you must get competent training. There are even good videos out there although nothing can replace a good instructor. I don’t think you have to know what a SWAT team knows or an operator, but there are some things to know and to practice. Get to know your house, apartment, or dorm room. Know where things are. Be able to walk through your house in the dark without killing yourself. Arrange room furniture so it will be easy for someone who knows the house, but difficult for someone who does not in the dark. If you can, build a safe room, (a solid door, very secure locks, with some concealment, with a little food and water, a flashlight, a phone, possibly an outside exit) to be able to go to in case of emergency. If the room could double as a safe room for natural disasters that would be even better.
In any case, having a good light on your gun or available for target identification is crucial. I can also help blind an attacker. But knowing how and when to use this is important training too. Once that light is on, the attacker has an idea where you are. Never shoot blindly. In combat that might be considered suppressive fire, but in home defense it is a recipe for disaster. I would rather scare a family member than shoot them. Maybe you left your front door open and a drunk neighbor is in your house. Target identification is mandatory and crucial.
Practicing with your gun is important. One class and shooting once or twice a year won’t cut it. Shooting is a perishable skill.
Defending your home and family is your inalienable right. Doing it right is something you don’t want to get wrong. Choosing the gun that is best for you and your situation is not difficult, but requires some preparation.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn
I assume the person was set on a hand gun rather than a long gun so I’ll only address hand guns. Long guns and shot guns are used in home defense but they are a whole other article.
The best way to pick a gun is to shoot it. Which means you may have to test drive several. I would recommend an auto loader action only because of round count. Revolvers are extremely reliable and if you become very good you can reload with moon clips or ammo strips. I am not, but I do like revolvers for other things. I even carried an S&W Airweight once.
My suggestion for choosing a home defense gun is to start practically. Obviously the gun is for home defense but will it also be used as a carry gun? If so, what size gun are you willing to carry? Consider the gun size. Full size, compact, sub-compact. Each of these have their good and bad points. If you carry then maybe a compact or sub-compact would double as a home defense weapon.
After purpose and action I would choose caliber. This will determine size somewhat. There are many opinions about this question. You’ll hear words like “stopping power” and “recoil”. I seem to be more practical about this. I want quantity. I draw the line with caliber at 9mm. I don’t want something of less caliber. I know that shot placement changes everything. If I can shoot an attacker between the eyes it doesn’t really matter what caliber I use. But I also think that under stress and fear I may not function the same as shooting a paper target at the range. In fact I know my accuracy is affected. I like the ballistics of 9mm. .45 ACP is fine but I don’t like the size, weight, cost, and round count in comparison. So that is my recommendation. But if you have small hands, or can’t control the kick, then maybe something smaller is for you. There is the popular .380 or .25 or even .22 caliber. Any gun is better than no gun in my opinion. Be careful about rounds that will through the attacker and the wall behind them. This is another reason why I don’t want to go higher than a 9mm. But any caliber will go through walls and doors in spite of what the movies show you. Reality is that there is very little in an average home that a bullet will not penetrate. Not a coach, a refrigerator, a bed, or a wall is cover. Rifle rounds are even more powerful.
After caliber I would consider round count. There auto load single or double stack magazines. Double stacks are a bulkier, wider gun. But I love it! I like having the option of 13 rounds in the gun. I do own single stacks and their round count is 8. So there’s my difference. Some people have a problem shooting sub-compacts because they are too small. I’ve learned to compensate but they take getting used to.
Next is reliability and price. I know that you can’t put a price on security. I’m cheap so I can. That’s why I put reliability with price. There are many good, quality, hand guns on the market. I have even shot well with a Hi-Point. I found that shooting accurately has more to do with the shooter than the gun. But reliability is a real consideration. I know I will get flak for this but I don’t want a Glock. Many people swear by them and rightly so. They are extremely reliable. I’ve owned them and sold them. I don’t hate on them but I can’t abide the price! There are many other guns out there that will serve me without breaking my budget. I like Smith and Wesson, Ruger, Taurus, and even Kel-Tec. I don’t have to have a Kimber, nice though they are. That is just me, you have to decide.
Purpose
Size
Action
Caliber
Reliability
Price
Storage ability
Remember an important rule if you planning to have a gun for home defense and concealed carry. It has to be comfortable and not a hassle. If it is a big burden you will leave it at home more than you carry it.
Also remember that defending yourself in confined spaces is difficult at best. Add to that stress darkness and then being sure where your rounds end up (it says on a .22 box that they can go a mile!), you need to have some training. Get to know your gun. Practice often and continue training.
In professional circles defending in a small space is called CQB or close quarters battle. It is not real easy but it is quite possible to learn. But you must get competent training. There are even good videos out there although nothing can replace a good instructor. I don’t think you have to know what a SWAT team knows or an operator, but there are some things to know and to practice. Get to know your house, apartment, or dorm room. Know where things are. Be able to walk through your house in the dark without killing yourself. Arrange room furniture so it will be easy for someone who knows the house, but difficult for someone who does not in the dark. If you can, build a safe room, (a solid door, very secure locks, with some concealment, with a little food and water, a flashlight, a phone, possibly an outside exit) to be able to go to in case of emergency. If the room could double as a safe room for natural disasters that would be even better.
In any case, having a good light on your gun or available for target identification is crucial. I can also help blind an attacker. But knowing how and when to use this is important training too. Once that light is on, the attacker has an idea where you are. Never shoot blindly. In combat that might be considered suppressive fire, but in home defense it is a recipe for disaster. I would rather scare a family member than shoot them. Maybe you left your front door open and a drunk neighbor is in your house. Target identification is mandatory and crucial.
Practicing with your gun is important. One class and shooting once or twice a year won’t cut it. Shooting is a perishable skill.
Defending your home and family is your inalienable right. Doing it right is something you don’t want to get wrong. Choosing the gun that is best for you and your situation is not difficult, but requires some preparation.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn
Wednesday, May 16, 2018
Cleaning You EDC Knife/Multi-tool
It’s been a while but the other day someone asked me for a gear check. What’s a gear check? It’s when you empty your pockets, pack, or bag and show how you are situated for emergencies. Some call what they carry every day their EDC or everyday carry. For many years I’ve carried several things with me but one is a knife or multi-tool (or both) My knife or multi-tool is a critical part of my everyday carry. I love it. I cherish it. And maybe I even show if off once in a while…
But when was the last time you cleaned your pocket knife or multi-tool?
If you feel resistance while opening the knife or tools, or can see visible gunk built up in the pivots, then it is has already been too long
Step 1: Remove Lint and Gunk
Using a toothpick, remove any visible bits of gunk you see trapped in the pivots or handle. Don’t worry about doing a thorough cleaning with the toothpick. That will come later.
The knife should always be dry during this first step. If you try to poke out lint while it is wet, it could get more stuck in the pivot and harder to remove later.
If you have compressed air (such as for cleaning computer keyboards) is also good for removing lint from within the knife.
A putty knife may be useful in this step.
Step 2: Wash the Knife with Soapy Water
Now is the time to get your knife really wet and remove any stickiness on it. Pay close attention to the locking mechanism and pivot. You want to make sure any dirt or crud is washed out.
You can use a sponge or soft-bristle toothbrush to wash the knife. However, never use anything abrasive to clean your knife! Not even the abrasive side of the sponge!
I prefer to use q-tips for cleaning the inside parts of the knife. Use a hammer to flatten the end of the q-tip and you’ll be able to get further inside of the knife.
For multi-tools, you’ll need to open and close each tool individually to clean them. Take your time and be sure to clean as you pivot out the tool – some parts of the tool only become exposed as its pivots out.
Step 3: Don’t Be Afraid to Soak the Knife
If your knife has a lot of crud built up in it (you probably waited too long to clean it, huh?), don’t be afraid to give it a good soak in sudsy water.
Use very HOT water as this will dissolve sap, dirt, and other sticky residue. Just don’t do anything foolish like adding boiling water. The water should be hot, but not so hot that it will destroy your knife handle.
I like Dawn dishwashing soap. It’s really good for greasy dirt.
Cover the edge of your knife with masking tape before you scrub it. This will prevent you from accidentally cutting yourself while it is slippery with soap and water. Trust me, those knife cuts really hurt, especially when using the soap!
Step 4: If Any Dirt Remains
For really tough spots, put a few drops of rubbing alcohol on a q-tip and rub off the dirt. The alcohol should evaporate quickly, but I still rinse the spot anyway.
Step 5: Don’t Disassemble the Knife
As tempting as it can be to take apart your knife to get to those bits of gunk in the pivots, do not disassemble!
In almost all cases, disassembling will void your knife warranty. Instead, call the knife company. Some good knife manufacturers will have you send them your knife so they can professionally clean and sharpen it for you.
Step 6: Let the Knife Dry Completely
Yes, COMPLETELY. If even a little bit of moisture is still only your knife, it can lead to corrosion or destroy the handle (especially in the case of wooden knife handles).
Step 7: If There Is Rust on the Blade
Even “stainless” steel knives can develop rust sometimes. This doesn’t mean that your knife is ruined. When rust forms, it is usually just on the surface. At this point, it likely hasn’t caused any irreparable damage. If you wait too long though, then the rust will cause pitting in the blade and destroy it.
So take care of that rust the moment you see it!
There are a lot of different products on the market for removing rust, some of which are made especially for knives and multi-tools. Two of these are:
Metal Glo and Rust Eraser.
In a pinch, you can use WD-40 however, most pros recommend one of the other products.
To remove the rust, put a small amount of the rust remover on a q-tip. Then rub this onto the affected part of the knife.
Try not to get the rust remover on other parts of the knife! It can be really hard to remove from these areas!
Let the rust remover sit for a few minutes. Then scrub it with a mildly-abrasive pad (the green ones on dish sponges work well – don’t use anything grittier than this).
If you can’t get the rust off in one try, then reapply the rust remover, let it sit, and try again. Be patient! It might take a few tries before the rust is completely removed.
Once you get the rust removed, completely wash and dry the knife again. The last thing you want is traces of rust remover left on your knife.
Step 8: Oil Your Knife
Pocket knives and multi-tools have a lot of moving parts including pivots and locking mechanisms. You’ve got to keep them lubed if they are to work reliably each time.
What Type of Oil to Use on a Knife?
There is a lot of debate about what the best type of oil for a knife is. Here are some points to remember:
• For knives which will be used on food, only use edible oil. So, no WD-40! Mineral oil is a good option.
• For knives which will not be used on food, 3-in-1 oil works great. Break-free CLP gun cleaner is another great choice.
• Avoid vegetable oil and motor oil.
• To prevent dust and debris from sticking to your knife, consider using a “dry” lubricant. One option is Finish Line Dry Teflon. Bike stores have many types of dry lubricants. Firearm stores are also a good place to find quality lube.
• If you don’t mind paying extra for a quality knife lube, consider the brands FirePower FP-10, or Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide. Both are highly recommended and don’t attract dirt.
Applying the Oil
The most important thing to remember is that you only need a tiny drop of oil for your knife. Putting too much oil on your knife will actually attract dirt and can lead to corrosion.
To apply the oil:
• Apply the oil as close to the center of the pivot and locking mechanism as possible.
• If the bottle doesn’t have a mechanism for delivering the oil precisely, use a toothpick to apply the oil.
• An even better method of applying oil is to get a 1cc medical syringe.
• After applying the oil, open and close the knife so the oil gets worked into the pivot.
• Don’t get oil on the handle! It will make it very slippery. Rubber handles will especially absorb the oil and could make them slippery for a very long time.
How Often to Oil?
This depends on how often you use your knife.
• Always oil your knife after cleaning it.
• When not using a knife, oil it every 2-3 months.
• You’ll need to oil the knife more often if it is humid or you’re near salt water.
• Always oil your knives before storing them.
If you follow some simple guidelines for your EDC knives or multi’s your tools will last a life time.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn
But when was the last time you cleaned your pocket knife or multi-tool?
If you feel resistance while opening the knife or tools, or can see visible gunk built up in the pivots, then it is has already been too long
Step 1: Remove Lint and Gunk
Using a toothpick, remove any visible bits of gunk you see trapped in the pivots or handle. Don’t worry about doing a thorough cleaning with the toothpick. That will come later.
The knife should always be dry during this first step. If you try to poke out lint while it is wet, it could get more stuck in the pivot and harder to remove later.
If you have compressed air (such as for cleaning computer keyboards) is also good for removing lint from within the knife.
A putty knife may be useful in this step.
Step 2: Wash the Knife with Soapy Water
Now is the time to get your knife really wet and remove any stickiness on it. Pay close attention to the locking mechanism and pivot. You want to make sure any dirt or crud is washed out.
You can use a sponge or soft-bristle toothbrush to wash the knife. However, never use anything abrasive to clean your knife! Not even the abrasive side of the sponge!
I prefer to use q-tips for cleaning the inside parts of the knife. Use a hammer to flatten the end of the q-tip and you’ll be able to get further inside of the knife.
For multi-tools, you’ll need to open and close each tool individually to clean them. Take your time and be sure to clean as you pivot out the tool – some parts of the tool only become exposed as its pivots out.
Step 3: Don’t Be Afraid to Soak the Knife
If your knife has a lot of crud built up in it (you probably waited too long to clean it, huh?), don’t be afraid to give it a good soak in sudsy water.
Use very HOT water as this will dissolve sap, dirt, and other sticky residue. Just don’t do anything foolish like adding boiling water. The water should be hot, but not so hot that it will destroy your knife handle.
I like Dawn dishwashing soap. It’s really good for greasy dirt.
Cover the edge of your knife with masking tape before you scrub it. This will prevent you from accidentally cutting yourself while it is slippery with soap and water. Trust me, those knife cuts really hurt, especially when using the soap!
Step 4: If Any Dirt Remains
For really tough spots, put a few drops of rubbing alcohol on a q-tip and rub off the dirt. The alcohol should evaporate quickly, but I still rinse the spot anyway.
Step 5: Don’t Disassemble the Knife
As tempting as it can be to take apart your knife to get to those bits of gunk in the pivots, do not disassemble!
In almost all cases, disassembling will void your knife warranty. Instead, call the knife company. Some good knife manufacturers will have you send them your knife so they can professionally clean and sharpen it for you.
Step 6: Let the Knife Dry Completely
Yes, COMPLETELY. If even a little bit of moisture is still only your knife, it can lead to corrosion or destroy the handle (especially in the case of wooden knife handles).
Step 7: If There Is Rust on the Blade
Even “stainless” steel knives can develop rust sometimes. This doesn’t mean that your knife is ruined. When rust forms, it is usually just on the surface. At this point, it likely hasn’t caused any irreparable damage. If you wait too long though, then the rust will cause pitting in the blade and destroy it.
So take care of that rust the moment you see it!
There are a lot of different products on the market for removing rust, some of which are made especially for knives and multi-tools. Two of these are:
Metal Glo and Rust Eraser.
In a pinch, you can use WD-40 however, most pros recommend one of the other products.
To remove the rust, put a small amount of the rust remover on a q-tip. Then rub this onto the affected part of the knife.
Try not to get the rust remover on other parts of the knife! It can be really hard to remove from these areas!
Let the rust remover sit for a few minutes. Then scrub it with a mildly-abrasive pad (the green ones on dish sponges work well – don’t use anything grittier than this).
If you can’t get the rust off in one try, then reapply the rust remover, let it sit, and try again. Be patient! It might take a few tries before the rust is completely removed.
Once you get the rust removed, completely wash and dry the knife again. The last thing you want is traces of rust remover left on your knife.
Step 8: Oil Your Knife
Pocket knives and multi-tools have a lot of moving parts including pivots and locking mechanisms. You’ve got to keep them lubed if they are to work reliably each time.
What Type of Oil to Use on a Knife?
There is a lot of debate about what the best type of oil for a knife is. Here are some points to remember:
• For knives which will be used on food, only use edible oil. So, no WD-40! Mineral oil is a good option.
• For knives which will not be used on food, 3-in-1 oil works great. Break-free CLP gun cleaner is another great choice.
• Avoid vegetable oil and motor oil.
• To prevent dust and debris from sticking to your knife, consider using a “dry” lubricant. One option is Finish Line Dry Teflon. Bike stores have many types of dry lubricants. Firearm stores are also a good place to find quality lube.
• If you don’t mind paying extra for a quality knife lube, consider the brands FirePower FP-10, or Sentry Solutions Tuf-Glide. Both are highly recommended and don’t attract dirt.
Applying the Oil
The most important thing to remember is that you only need a tiny drop of oil for your knife. Putting too much oil on your knife will actually attract dirt and can lead to corrosion.
To apply the oil:
• Apply the oil as close to the center of the pivot and locking mechanism as possible.
• If the bottle doesn’t have a mechanism for delivering the oil precisely, use a toothpick to apply the oil.
• An even better method of applying oil is to get a 1cc medical syringe.
• After applying the oil, open and close the knife so the oil gets worked into the pivot.
• Don’t get oil on the handle! It will make it very slippery. Rubber handles will especially absorb the oil and could make them slippery for a very long time.
How Often to Oil?
This depends on how often you use your knife.
• Always oil your knife after cleaning it.
• When not using a knife, oil it every 2-3 months.
• You’ll need to oil the knife more often if it is humid or you’re near salt water.
• Always oil your knives before storing them.
If you follow some simple guidelines for your EDC knives or multi’s your tools will last a life time.
Semper Paratus
Check 6
Burn
Friday, May 11, 2018
Overwatch: Drill of the Month
May 2018
Hackathorn Standards (pistol, 60 rounds) Ken Hackathorn
3 IPSC targets 1 meter apart and staggered heights.
5 yards - 1 round to each head freestyle. 3 secs
5 yards - 1 round to each head strong hand only. 4 secs
5 yards - 1 round to each body strong hand only. 3 secs twice
8 yards - 2 rounds to the body left target. 2 secs
8 yards - 2 rounds to the body middle target. 2 secs
8 yards - 2 rounds to the body right target. 2 secs
10 yards - El presidente (facing up range, turn and fire 2-2-2, reload, 2-2-2) 10 secs
10 yards - Weak hand pick up (pistol on ground, butt strong side.
Flip pistol with weak hand and fire 1 round per target to each body.) 5 secs
12 to 8 yards - Shoot on the move, 2 to each body 5 secs
15 yards - transition drill, 1 to each body 4 secs
20 yards - standing to prone, 2 to each body 10 secs
25 yards - using vertical cover and tactical order, 2 to each body tactical/retention reload, kneeling, 2 to each body. 24 secs
5 points for an A, 3 points for a C and 2 points for a D. 300 total possible points.
(275 is instructor score)
Ken Hackathorn has served as a US Army Special Forces Small Arms Instructor, Gunsite Instructor, and NRA Police Firearms Instructor. He is currently an FBI Certified Firearms Instructor, Certified Deputy Sheriff with Washington County SO, Ohio, and a SRT member and Special Response Team trainer. Ken has trained US Military Special Operations forces, Marine FAST and SOTG units and is a contract small arms trainer to FBI SWAT and HRT.
Ken has provided training to Federal, State, and local law enforcement agencies and been active in small arms training for the past 25 years. He has written firearms related material for Guns & Ammo, Combat Handguns, Soldier Of Fortune, and currently American Handgunner and contributed to at least six other gun/shooting journals. Ken was also a founding member of IPSC and IDPA.
Hackathorn Standards (pistol, 60 rounds) Ken Hackathorn
3 IPSC targets 1 meter apart and staggered heights.
5 yards - 1 round to each head freestyle. 3 secs
5 yards - 1 round to each head strong hand only. 4 secs
5 yards - 1 round to each body strong hand only. 3 secs twice
8 yards - 2 rounds to the body left target. 2 secs
8 yards - 2 rounds to the body middle target. 2 secs
8 yards - 2 rounds to the body right target. 2 secs
10 yards - El presidente (facing up range, turn and fire 2-2-2, reload, 2-2-2) 10 secs
10 yards - Weak hand pick up (pistol on ground, butt strong side.
Flip pistol with weak hand and fire 1 round per target to each body.) 5 secs
12 to 8 yards - Shoot on the move, 2 to each body 5 secs
15 yards - transition drill, 1 to each body 4 secs
20 yards - standing to prone, 2 to each body 10 secs
25 yards - using vertical cover and tactical order, 2 to each body tactical/retention reload, kneeling, 2 to each body. 24 secs
5 points for an A, 3 points for a C and 2 points for a D. 300 total possible points.
(275 is instructor score)
Ken Hackathorn has served as a US Army Special Forces Small Arms Instructor, Gunsite Instructor, and NRA Police Firearms Instructor. He is currently an FBI Certified Firearms Instructor, Certified Deputy Sheriff with Washington County SO, Ohio, and a SRT member and Special Response Team trainer. Ken has trained US Military Special Operations forces, Marine FAST and SOTG units and is a contract small arms trainer to FBI SWAT and HRT.
Ken has provided training to Federal, State, and local law enforcement agencies and been active in small arms training for the past 25 years. He has written firearms related material for Guns & Ammo, Combat Handguns, Soldier Of Fortune, and currently American Handgunner and contributed to at least six other gun/shooting journals. Ken was also a founding member of IPSC and IDPA.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)